Ampex MM-1000 Story...
- Thread starter sweetbeats
- Start date
ethyrvalve
Norman Nanoweber
i'm slightly feverish and delirious today, but i count 16 tracks.
in any event, it looks like somebody got called up to the big leagues
congrats!
in any event, it looks like somebody got called up to the big leagues
congrats!
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Richard,
I don't think I'll ever get over that pic of that studio you worked in...I'm sure you are completely aware of what that gear, in functional condition, would go for today. Love the 4-track 350 (?) on the right in the console. That's a beaut'.
And also, I can't get much by you huh? You knew it was some kind of 2" 16-track deal dintcha?
And Ghost, you were on the right track (no pun intended).
Muck, yes I do have the 8 additional electronics modules.
They are coming from my 440-8 which, after acquiring the MM-1000, has had a pending status of "parts donor". I've been hanging on to all of the 440-8 just in case a good deal on a 16-track block came along...I've been in a holding pattern on what came via UPS yesterday because my friend who put the package together is very, very busy and it took digging through offsite storage to find the stuff, etc. I wasn't sure if the 16-track block was going to be part of the deal but now that it is here it is time to part out the 440-8. Bittersweet for sure, but it is hard to argue with the notion (in my mind) since I need a number of bits and chunks from the 440-8.
So, yes, I'm implying above that there was more to the package that came yesterday...
First off, more pics of and info about the 16-track block...the record and playback heads are IEM heads like I presently have loaded in the 8-track block that's on the MM-1000. Some people like them, some people don't in terms of their sound. I don't think I'll ever be in a position to complain. I think I'll like whatever goes onto and comes off of tape through those 440 electronics and wide-format heads regardless of IEM or Ampex branded. The heads on an MM-1x00 2" block are totally fixed except for wrap angle. This can be good and bad if the fixed zenith and azimuth aren't correct. Judging by the wear pattern I'm really impressed. There is a little bit of hourglass to the record and playback heads but its not much and I think that just comes with the territory...plus it is very even wear. This block has been relapped (and I assume setup) by JRF, but it honestly looks like much of the profile is still intact and the wear since the relap is pretty low...I think these heads have quite a bit of life in them. Looks like John French cut edge slots in the playback head which is nice. The erase head is just gorgeous. That's stock Ampex. There is a fragile solder joint on one of the wires going to track 16 on the playback head but that should be easy to repair. My friend was able to locate all the shield cans and gate hardware. The only thing that is missing is the scrape flutter idler that goes between the record and playback heads so I'm on the lookout for one of those.
Erase Head:
Record head:
Playback head:
Additional block hardware:
How about a complete (except for scrape flutter idlers) 8-track headblock assembly? The heads are so-so but the best part of this is that the block, gate, guides and shield cans are there. I have a set of basically new 440C-8 heads with the proper playback amp cards. The 'C' heads have a better response as they were constructed with thinner laminations. So I have the parts to have a spare block setup for 8-track operation.
A reel idler roller...this is the roller for the critically important reel idler assembly with the viscious-damped flywheel. My MM-1000 presently has a roller for 1" operation as it has a shallow grooved section in it for 1" tape. This is the 2" part with the baseplate and bearing housing to boot. Its in good shape and is essential for converting to 2".
How about a complete reel motor assembly? Not that I'm really worried about the my motors ever wearing out...they are a brushless AC torque motor (so no brushes or commutator to wear out or dirty things up) and the bearings are relatively huge, but it is a nice peace of mind to have a spare motor with a complete brake assembly, motor start capacitor and reel table/hold-down. Sweet!
Here is an essential part for the conversion...an additional 8-channel I/O panel with cabling. It is in pretty good shape, just needs some cleaning up. The panel and cable harness are labeled for channels 1~8. Now, you know me...I wish I had the panel with the 9~16 labels but this is actually a good thing that this assembly is the channels 1~8 version because over half of the XLR jacks have been cut off...one whole 4-channel side of the harness has been hacked, but because it is a standard harness for the standard 8-track MM-1000 the cabling is long to go up to the overbridge. I'll need to get some XLR plugs but the cabling is long enough that it will be easy to modify to connect up to the 8 additional electronics modules that will be in the lower section of the console.
Got some head cabling which will come in handy. This is one area that I'm still short though for the record head, but these assemblies are good to have on-hand.
And then there's this bundle...I have no idea what this is...not even sure if it goes to the MM-1000 but my friend put it in the box. The 120-pin Winchester connectors are nice to have...
Hmmmm...I wonder if this was a Y-connector to hook up an 8-track remote and a 16-track remote to control a 24-track MM-1000...
And all this only cost me shipping!
Stuff I don't have yet but is either on the way or has been located and it is just a time or logistics to get it here:
2" rolling tape guides...2 are needed and I found them on a NOS VR-2000B quad video machine erase head block. Had to pay for this but got a good deal considering the cheapest I've seen for 2" rolling guides is $175 each... Used typically go for around $125 each. Its enroute.
New motion sensing switch...you may have read above that one of mine is broken...functional but exposed (case is broken open) and a bit quirky. I've sourced one of these and it'll be here at some point.
39V PSU mount panel...there is a rackmount panel that holds two 39V PSU's (each PSU powers 4 electronics modules). I need the panel. Much preferred over duct tape or zip ties...I have located one and it will be here at some point.
Another item that is not 2" conversion related but desired (and has been located and will be here at some point) is a cover for the Control Relay Box...right now all my big chunky control relays are exposed at the back of the MM-1000. There is a nice factory cover that goes over those. Not operationally necessary but there is quite a bit of line voltage running around in that box and I have 4 kids running around...
Stuff I'm still needing:
This mess of a harness...this is why I'm still in a pickle with the record head cabling because these 16 mil-spec connectors and the three Winchester connectors hook up to one of the 2 8-channel sync boxes needed for a 16-track MM-1000. I have a spare sync box, but only the one harness that's presently in the MM-1000. The harness is in between the electronics modules and the record head, going through the sync box, and also interfacing with the control panel. Pretty important and the mil-spec connectors aren't easy to find nor cheap:
And I also need one of these Amphenol connectors and hopefully some cabling...this goes from the control panel to control the record arming and such on the electronics. The 8-track has one connector set, the 16-track has two and I'm lacking the second female connector for the 16-track...the mode control switch assembly has the male ends and I'm swimming in mode control assemblies but I gots no connector and wiring for the other side...
And lastly, the above mentioned 2" scrape flutter idler for the 2" headblock.
Once I have/track down the stuff above my MM-1000 will be pretty much complete and capable of running in 1" or 2" trim, and I'll have a healthy portion of spares.
Converting an MM-1000 from 1" 8-track to 2" 16-track is not for the faint of heart if you don't already have the parts on-hand...I suppose that would be the case for any conversion of the sort, but to do it you need:
I think that's it.
This is all assuming you already have the console with the overbridge to fit the electronics as well, unless you mount them in an outboard rack and then you need to make sure the interface cabling to the heads will reach.
Phew!
Trust me...if you want the 16-track version just look for a 16-track. The only reason I'm doing this is because I already had the majority of the stuff to convert and my friend offered up most of the remaining (and critical) components.
I will likely focus mostly on running the MM-1000 in 1" trim just for the economy of it, and this conversion project won't be happening for awhile anyway. Its just that doors are opening at the moment for the gathering process.
I don't think I'll ever get over that pic of that studio you worked in...I'm sure you are completely aware of what that gear, in functional condition, would go for today. Love the 4-track 350 (?) on the right in the console. That's a beaut'.
And also, I can't get much by you huh? You knew it was some kind of 2" 16-track deal dintcha?
And Ghost, you were on the right track (no pun intended).
Muck, yes I do have the 8 additional electronics modules.
They are coming from my 440-8 which, after acquiring the MM-1000, has had a pending status of "parts donor". I've been hanging on to all of the 440-8 just in case a good deal on a 16-track block came along...I've been in a holding pattern on what came via UPS yesterday because my friend who put the package together is very, very busy and it took digging through offsite storage to find the stuff, etc. I wasn't sure if the 16-track block was going to be part of the deal but now that it is here it is time to part out the 440-8. Bittersweet for sure, but it is hard to argue with the notion (in my mind) since I need a number of bits and chunks from the 440-8.So, yes, I'm implying above that there was more to the package that came yesterday...
First off, more pics of and info about the 16-track block...the record and playback heads are IEM heads like I presently have loaded in the 8-track block that's on the MM-1000. Some people like them, some people don't in terms of their sound. I don't think I'll ever be in a position to complain. I think I'll like whatever goes onto and comes off of tape through those 440 electronics and wide-format heads regardless of IEM or Ampex branded. The heads on an MM-1x00 2" block are totally fixed except for wrap angle. This can be good and bad if the fixed zenith and azimuth aren't correct. Judging by the wear pattern I'm really impressed. There is a little bit of hourglass to the record and playback heads but its not much and I think that just comes with the territory...plus it is very even wear. This block has been relapped (and I assume setup) by JRF, but it honestly looks like much of the profile is still intact and the wear since the relap is pretty low...I think these heads have quite a bit of life in them. Looks like John French cut edge slots in the playback head which is nice. The erase head is just gorgeous. That's stock Ampex. There is a fragile solder joint on one of the wires going to track 16 on the playback head but that should be easy to repair. My friend was able to locate all the shield cans and gate hardware. The only thing that is missing is the scrape flutter idler that goes between the record and playback heads so I'm on the lookout for one of those.
Erase Head:
Record head:
Playback head:
Additional block hardware:
How about a complete (except for scrape flutter idlers) 8-track headblock assembly? The heads are so-so but the best part of this is that the block, gate, guides and shield cans are there. I have a set of basically new 440C-8 heads with the proper playback amp cards. The 'C' heads have a better response as they were constructed with thinner laminations. So I have the parts to have a spare block setup for 8-track operation.
A reel idler roller...this is the roller for the critically important reel idler assembly with the viscious-damped flywheel. My MM-1000 presently has a roller for 1" operation as it has a shallow grooved section in it for 1" tape. This is the 2" part with the baseplate and bearing housing to boot. Its in good shape and is essential for converting to 2".
How about a complete reel motor assembly? Not that I'm really worried about the my motors ever wearing out...they are a brushless AC torque motor (so no brushes or commutator to wear out or dirty things up) and the bearings are relatively huge, but it is a nice peace of mind to have a spare motor with a complete brake assembly, motor start capacitor and reel table/hold-down. Sweet!
Here is an essential part for the conversion...an additional 8-channel I/O panel with cabling. It is in pretty good shape, just needs some cleaning up. The panel and cable harness are labeled for channels 1~8. Now, you know me...I wish I had the panel with the 9~16 labels but this is actually a good thing that this assembly is the channels 1~8 version because over half of the XLR jacks have been cut off...one whole 4-channel side of the harness has been hacked, but because it is a standard harness for the standard 8-track MM-1000 the cabling is long to go up to the overbridge. I'll need to get some XLR plugs but the cabling is long enough that it will be easy to modify to connect up to the 8 additional electronics modules that will be in the lower section of the console.
Got some head cabling which will come in handy. This is one area that I'm still short though for the record head, but these assemblies are good to have on-hand.
And then there's this bundle...I have no idea what this is...not even sure if it goes to the MM-1000 but my friend put it in the box. The 120-pin Winchester connectors are nice to have...
Hmmmm...I wonder if this was a Y-connector to hook up an 8-track remote and a 16-track remote to control a 24-track MM-1000...
And all this only cost me shipping!
Stuff I don't have yet but is either on the way or has been located and it is just a time or logistics to get it here:
2" rolling tape guides...2 are needed and I found them on a NOS VR-2000B quad video machine erase head block. Had to pay for this but got a good deal considering the cheapest I've seen for 2" rolling guides is $175 each...
Used typically go for around $125 each. Its enroute.
New motion sensing switch...you may have read above that one of mine is broken...functional but exposed (case is broken open) and a bit quirky. I've sourced one of these and it'll be here at some point.
39V PSU mount panel...there is a rackmount panel that holds two 39V PSU's (each PSU powers 4 electronics modules). I need the panel. Much preferred over duct tape or zip ties...I have located one and it will be here at some point.
Another item that is not 2" conversion related but desired (and has been located and will be here at some point) is a cover for the Control Relay Box...right now all my big chunky control relays are exposed at the back of the MM-1000. There is a nice factory cover that goes over those. Not operationally necessary but there is quite a bit of line voltage running around in that box and I have 4 kids running around...
Stuff I'm still needing:
This mess of a harness...this is why I'm still in a pickle with the record head cabling because these 16 mil-spec connectors and the three Winchester connectors hook up to one of the 2 8-channel sync boxes needed for a 16-track MM-1000. I have a spare sync box, but only the one harness that's presently in the MM-1000. The harness is in between the electronics modules and the record head, going through the sync box, and also interfacing with the control panel. Pretty important and the mil-spec connectors aren't easy to find nor cheap:
And I also need one of these Amphenol connectors and hopefully some cabling...this goes from the control panel to control the record arming and such on the electronics. The 8-track has one connector set, the 16-track has two and I'm lacking the second female connector for the 16-track...the mode control switch assembly has the male ends and I'm swimming in mode control assemblies but I gots no connector and wiring for the other side...
And lastly, the above mentioned 2" scrape flutter idler for the 2" headblock.
Once I have/track down the stuff above my MM-1000 will be pretty much complete and capable of running in 1" or 2" trim, and I'll have a healthy portion of spares.
Converting an MM-1000 from 1" 8-track to 2" 16-track is not for the faint of heart if you don't already have the parts on-hand...I suppose that would be the case for any conversion of the sort, but to do it you need:
- 8 electronics modules
- 2 additional 39V PSU's with mounting panel and wiring harness
- 1 additional sync box and wiring harness
- 16-track mode control switch assembly and wiring harness
- 16-track control panel dress panel
- 1 additional 8-channel I/O panel and wiring harness
- 1 additional 8-channel erase head connector harness
- 1 additional 8-channel playback head connector harness
- the 2" headblock replete with shield cans, gate, guides, scrape flutter idler and...oh yeah...heads
- 2" reel idler roller
- 2 2" rolling guides
I think that's it.
This is all assuming you already have the console with the overbridge to fit the electronics as well, unless you mount them in an outboard rack and then you need to make sure the interface cabling to the heads will reach.
Phew!
Trust me...if you want the 16-track version just look for a 16-track. The only reason I'm doing this is because I already had the majority of the stuff to convert and my friend offered up most of the remaining (and critical) components.
I will likely focus mostly on running the MM-1000 in 1" trim just for the economy of it, and this conversion project won't be happening for awhile anyway. Its just that doors are opening at the moment for the gathering process.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
It will be some work, but, I'm in no NEED to run the MM-1000 as a 16-track and I'm focused on other projects right now. This is going to be a FUN rainy-day (maybe rainy-season ) project. We are doing some remodeling to our house as well as a small addition this year that will include a 10 x 11 sound-proof room. I'll have a much more ideal space to house the MM-1000 and other equipment for operation or during refurbishing.
First I run it as a 1". Then, later, I try 2".
The heads are compatible, but that's about it. The block, gate, shield cans, guides...everything else is different on the 440-8. I have a complete 440B-8 headblock that I'll be selling off at some point with VGC heads. It will need setup, but it'll all be there. I'll also have some bare heads for sale too, condition so-so/unknown.
Here is a pic of the complete 440-8 headblock:
) project. We are doing some remodeling to our house as well as a small addition this year that will include a 10 x 11 sound-proof room. I'll have a much more ideal space to house the MM-1000 and other equipment for operation or during refurbishing.First I run it as a 1". Then, later, I try 2".
The heads are compatible, but that's about it. The block, gate, shield cans, guides...everything else is different on the 440-8. I have a complete 440B-8 headblock that I'll be selling off at some point with VGC heads. It will need setup, but it'll all be there. I'll also have some bare heads for sale too, condition so-so/unknown.
Here is a pic of the complete 440-8 headblock:
SteveM
New member
The heads look nice.
What is the transport model for the 8 track? It's a different model than the one I have isn't it? You don't really see them much.
The new house addition sounds great too.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Yes, the 1~4 track 440 transports are significantly different than the 8-track...though I'll be selling one of those too.
Richard King
New member
richard,
i don't think i'll ever get over that pic of that studio you worked in...i'm sure you are completely aware of what that gear, in functional condition, would go for today. Love the 4-track 350 (?) on the right in the console. That's a beaut'.
you would have loved some of the old mics that were in there. I often made use of the 2 x neumann u-67's. I wish i had bought those when the place was shut down.
and also, i can't get much by you huh? You knew it was some kind of 2" 16-track deal dintcha? :d
ya musta missed this:
https://homerecording.com/bbs/showpost.php?p=3384809&postcount=194
SteveM
New member
Richard, is that a UA 610 board?
I wonder how much something like that would go for these days.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Richard, I didn't miss that post...that's what I was referring to when I said I can't get much by you...you knew it before I posted it. 
Richard King
New member
Nah, that was a home brew board that was put together by a fellow in Minneapolis. I suspect its value would be whatever the pile of scrap would be worth.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
So I got that NOS VR-2000B quad video deck erase block assembly from which I intend to scavenge the two 2" rolling guides. Unfortunately one of the guides barely rolls. One of the bearings is partially siezed so the thing rolls like a tight detented knob. The seller said in the listing that both guides rolled smooth like new. I fully believe this issue is unintentional as when I put the guide back together it rolls smooth but that is only because the inner race on the bad bearing is spinning on the shaft...the shaft is oiled and (as with any of this old Ampex stuff) is an extremely precise fit with the bearing so it feels like a smooth ball bearing so I can understand how the seller thought all was good. Can't run it that way though. I've sent the seller a message.
This is how it goes when doing a project like this. Nothing really goes without a hitch. I've come to expect the unexpected with each step, though it still is disappointing. Two steps forward, one step back.
I'm pretty sure I can get that bearing replaced but I'm checking into any caveats. I'll need to do the oven thing like I have with other Ampex transport parts where I warm up the component to get it to expand so I can get the bearing out. The bearing is not pressed in nor is it held by a snap-ring but it is in there tight and I won't try to drive it out as the roller is too delicate and precise.
Anyway, here are better pics of the erase block than what I put up earlier. First two are of the full assembly and then a couple with the covers off. I think the list price of this assembly new was $2800. That erase head is a full-track head for the video.
The seller said in the listing that both guides rolled smooth like new. I fully believe this issue is unintentional as when I put the guide back together it rolls smooth but that is only because the inner race on the bad bearing is spinning on the shaft...the shaft is oiled and (as with any of this old Ampex stuff) is an extremely precise fit with the bearing so it feels like a smooth ball bearing so I can understand how the seller thought all was good. Can't run it that way though. I've sent the seller a message.This is how it goes when doing a project like this. Nothing really goes without a hitch. I've come to expect the unexpected with each step, though it still is disappointing. Two steps forward, one step back.
I'm pretty sure I can get that bearing replaced but I'm checking into any caveats. I'll need to do the oven thing like I have with other Ampex transport parts where I warm up the component to get it to expand so I can get the bearing out. The bearing is not pressed in nor is it held by a snap-ring but it is in there tight and I won't try to drive it out as the roller is too delicate and precise.
Anyway, here are better pics of the erase block than what I put up earlier. First two are of the full assembly and then a couple with the covers off. I think the list price of this assembly new was $2800. That erase head is a full-track head for the video.
jpmorris
Tape Wolf
Damn, damn, damn. When I first read that, I thought you'd found an entire NOS video deck
The fact that you can only get those things out by heating up the metal is astounding precision. I'm sure you'll get there with some patience. Nothing can stop you!
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Yeah, Muck...check this out...here is the direction I've gotten as far as getting those bearings out: heat the bearing assembly up to nearly 500 degrees farenheight
, and then use a fancy bearing puller (about $65 for the tool) to pull the bearing and work quick. I typically McGyver some other way to do things when can or build my own tool rather than purchasing an expensive tool, but honestly my assessment on this is that I need to follow that advice. The wall of the roller is relatively thin and the proper puller would be necessary to keep the roller completely intact in removing that bearing. The integrity of the roller is critical. So I'll see. But, yes, I have been floored by the precision of some of the machining in these parts. As somebody that used to work in an in-house machine shop for a small manufacturer, many a time have I pulled something apart on an Ampex and said (out-loud) "wowwwwwwww!"Okay, so where I left the MM-1000 last was in the midst of that stray voltage issue in the chassis and on the transport plate. I had figured out what was going on there (part stupidity and part ineffective grounding of the chassis and components). I've tackled the first steps of getting that resolved which was to create good ground conductivity between the rackmount power switch panel (recall that the ground comes in from the power cord, goes to a lug on a barrier strip on the power switch panel and then to a threaded post on the panel) and the console chassis. The power switch panel is effectively grounded, but that ground path is not passing on to the rest of the console chassis. So I took my dremel type rotary tool and sanded off a small area of paint on the chassis where the power switch panel mounts, did the same thing to a coordinating spot on the backside of the power switch panel, put a little conductive paste in there and mounted up the panel. Here you can see the bared metal areas on the back of the switch panel (in the foreground), and on the console chassis (in the background):
Then the next step was to do the same thing for the transport plate, so I sanded an area under one of the cap screws that affixes the transport plate to its tray in the console chassis, put some paste in there and put a good quality internal star washer in there so there is good bite into the chassis and to the screw which goes into the plate, and as an aside it is nice that the mounting screw location is within inches of the transfer point between the power switch panel and the console chassis...short path:
Okay...so that should get us a well-grounded console chassis and transport plate. The other thing I was facing was installing a dedicated ground run from the power switch panel to the input power connector of the 24VDC regulated power supply. It is shown on the schematics, and there is a lug inside the input power connector, but there is no wire on my MM-1000. Why? Dunno, but every piece of advice I have received on this directed me to go ahead and make the machine match the schematics. Here is the start of it. I added the new wire to the threaded post on the power switch panel and you can see that new green wire traveling upward along the main power harness. I've tucked it into existing zip ties and I'll continue to do that all the way back to the 24VDC supply and then connect it to the ground lug inside the input power connector to the supply:
So what is the result of the work on the new ground path from the ground lug on the main power cord to the transport plate? Looks good. Here is a pic of the modded power switch panel back on the machine where it should be...the multimeter is set to continuity. One probe is on the ground lug at the end of the looooong power cord for the MM-1000, and the other probe is touching the transport plate. Looks goot yah?
What needs to be addressed at this point, aside from finishing the wire run to the 24VDC supply, is for me to understand what grounding the 39VDC supplies, the control relay box, the sync box and the amplifier electronics modules should have. They all mount to the chassis like the 24VDC supply and yet the schematics show no chassis ground connection...is it unneccesary and if so why then does the 24VDC supply have it? If there is no chassis ground continuity isn't there risk of one coming into existence since all those components are direct-mounted to the console and everything is painted but paint can scratch off and then do we create a potential and unintended ground-loop? This is all very confusing to me.
I compared this situation to an Ampex 440 mounted in an Ampex roll-around console and in that case the 39VDC supply is direct-mounted to the transport plate which is grounded, so there is lots of good ground conductivity there to the 39VDC supply (unlike the MM-1000 where there are paint layers in between), but the amplifier electronics are totally isolated from that grounding by non-conductive surfaces (wood). So the 440 situation has the 39VDC totally chassis grounded, and the amplifer electronics totally not chassis grounded and with the MM-1000 both of those components are not shown to be grounded on the schematics but they might become grounded depending on the condition of the painted surfaces.
I've got a question out to somebody about this...unsettled about what to do.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
And to make matters worse regarding my grounding quandry...
I see that somebody at some point stripped paint off of the far left rack rail on the lower console, probably for the sync box (which houses switching relays, sync gain controls and bias traps)...this tells me that at some point SOMEBODY thought whatever was mounted there needed better chassis grounding, though the sync box that was mounted in the console when I got the MM-1000 (and the one that is still in there) hasn't been modded to take advantage of the stripped patches on the rack rail (i.e. paint hasn't been stripped off of the back of its left rack ear). These are the stripped patches:
I see that somebody at some point stripped paint off of the far left rack rail on the lower console, probably for the sync box (which houses switching relays, sync gain controls and bias traps)...this tells me that at some point SOMEBODY thought whatever was mounted there needed better chassis grounding, though the sync box that was mounted in the console when I got the MM-1000 (and the one that is still in there) hasn't been modded to take advantage of the stripped patches on the rack rail (i.e. paint hasn't been stripped off of the back of its left rack ear). These are the stripped patches:
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Check 2" scrape flutter idler off the list of needs...maybe.
I kind soul has given me a 2" scrape flutter idler. Thank you kind soul, you know who you are and neither of us want random people running to you for free stuff so I'll keep your identity out of it.
Now, keep in mind this flutter idler needs work...no free lunches. It squeaks like a hamster wheel.
Here 'tis...the flash is too kind, and I've already wiped it down so it doesn't look bad, but there is some light surface rust on the roller, and it needs a good cleaning and bearing maintenance (I'll go into that below), but it is complete and straight:
The roller rotates on two small diameter spindles at each end that are set in honest-to-goodness machined ruby bearing cups. The ruby bearings require specific maintenence procedures that call for ultrasonic cleaning best carried out by a jeweler and lubrication with a specific type of jewel oil. When working properly I have not found a roller that rolls so smoothly and quietly and freely...on a roller that is in proper condition its hard to tell its spinning.
Here's how you take these things apart...there are two small set screws in the front face of the idler housing that hold the bearing assemblies in place. Take those screws out:
Then you carefully apply pressure to the roller upward and then downward to move the bearing assemblies enough to allow enough room for the roller spindles to clear the bearing assemblies and out the roller comes:
Then you can slide the bearing assemblies back to the inside of the roller housing and out they come. They may be a little stubborn if there is oxidation on the brass housings of the ruby bearings. I used a blunt instrument to gently manipulate the bearing assemblies back and forth along with a rag to try and get grime off as I went so that ultimately the assemblies came out pretty freely (as opposed to just forcing them through, I tried to work them through so as to avoid damage to the bearing assembly bores in the aluminum idler housing). I think in many cases this won't be an issue but because this flutter filter has seen better days it takes a little more time and care. Here it is completely disassembled:
And here is one of those ruby bearings. Wow. Can you believe that? Those Ampex people were just nuts. How they were able to machine so precisely that cup into precious stone I may never know, but it is another example of the over-the-top engineering present even in these old cast-off machines, and reinforcement for my status as a fan of vintage Ampex machines:
So I think it may be $30 or something to have the bearings cleaned and oiled. I'll do that at some point and then I'll know for sure what I've got here.
I kind soul has given me a 2" scrape flutter idler. Thank you kind soul, you know who you are and neither of us want random people running to you for free stuff so I'll keep your identity out of it.
Now, keep in mind this flutter idler needs work...no free lunches. It squeaks like a hamster wheel.
Here 'tis...the flash is too kind, and I've already wiped it down so it doesn't look bad, but there is some light surface rust on the roller, and it needs a good cleaning and bearing maintenance (I'll go into that below), but it is complete and straight:
The roller rotates on two small diameter spindles at each end that are set in honest-to-goodness machined ruby bearing cups. The ruby bearings require specific maintenence procedures that call for ultrasonic cleaning best carried out by a jeweler and lubrication with a specific type of jewel oil. When working properly I have not found a roller that rolls so smoothly and quietly and freely...on a roller that is in proper condition its hard to tell its spinning.
Here's how you take these things apart...there are two small set screws in the front face of the idler housing that hold the bearing assemblies in place. Take those screws out:
Then you carefully apply pressure to the roller upward and then downward to move the bearing assemblies enough to allow enough room for the roller spindles to clear the bearing assemblies and out the roller comes:
Then you can slide the bearing assemblies back to the inside of the roller housing and out they come. They may be a little stubborn if there is oxidation on the brass housings of the ruby bearings. I used a blunt instrument to gently manipulate the bearing assemblies back and forth along with a rag to try and get grime off as I went so that ultimately the assemblies came out pretty freely (as opposed to just forcing them through, I tried to work them through so as to avoid damage to the bearing assembly bores in the aluminum idler housing). I think in many cases this won't be an issue but because this flutter filter has seen better days it takes a little more time and care. Here it is completely disassembled:
And here is one of those ruby bearings. Wow. Can you believe that? Those Ampex people were just nuts. How they were able to machine so precisely that cup into precious stone I may never know, but it is another example of the over-the-top engineering present even in these old cast-off machines, and reinforcement for my status as a fan of vintage Ampex machines:
So I think it may be $30 or something to have the bearings cleaned and oiled. I'll do that at some point and then I'll know for sure what I've got here.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Update on grounding Matilda...
I got the dedicated ground run wired to the 24VDC power supply, the one I started the other day when I got the chassis grounding accomplished for the transport plate.
It was a bit of challenge to get the ground wire terminated inside the plug that connects to the 24V supply just because of cramped space inside the plug. See? The ground wire has to attach to the screw-terminal in the middle and I couldn't get the wire through the strain relief already on the wire bundle.
I'm less than pleased with the aesthetic of the final result, but it accomplishes the goal. Here is the finished job...You can see the bundle of input wires going to the 24V supply with the green ground wire strapped in:
Moving on...
To a disappointing but not insurmountable discovery.
I was getting ready to replace the wall plug end of the Ampex power cord for the MM-1000. At some point the cable had been fitted with a replacement end of standard quality and it wasn't mounted as sturdily as I'd like. Got a nice heavy-duty cable mount plug with circumferential clamping strain relief, but here is what I discovered of the condition lurking inside the power cable:
Yep. The insulation on each of the three conductors is just toast, and it is throughout the cable. I salvaged the large 30A twist-lock machine end of the power cable and chucked the cable in the trash. I'll have to look for some replacement cable locally and make up a new cable. So, oh well, no way to plug the Ampex in for now but there's no way I was going to go back to work on the thing with the power cable in that condition.
I got the dedicated ground run wired to the 24VDC power supply, the one I started the other day when I got the chassis grounding accomplished for the transport plate.
It was a bit of challenge to get the ground wire terminated inside the plug that connects to the 24V supply just because of cramped space inside the plug. See? The ground wire has to attach to the screw-terminal in the middle and I couldn't get the wire through the strain relief already on the wire bundle.
I'm less than pleased with the aesthetic of the final result, but it accomplishes the goal. Here is the finished job...You can see the bundle of input wires going to the 24V supply with the green ground wire strapped in:
Moving on...
To a disappointing but not insurmountable discovery.
I was getting ready to replace the wall plug end of the Ampex power cord for the MM-1000. At some point the cable had been fitted with a replacement end of standard quality and it wasn't mounted as sturdily as I'd like. Got a nice heavy-duty cable mount plug with circumferential clamping strain relief, but here is what I discovered of the condition lurking inside the power cable:
Yep. The insulation on each of the three conductors is just toast, and it is throughout the cable. I salvaged the large 30A twist-lock machine end of the power cable and chucked the cable in the trash. I'll have to look for some replacement cable locally and make up a new cable. So, oh well, no way to plug the Ampex in for now but there's no way I was going to go back to work on the thing with the power cable in that condition.
sweetbeats
Reel deep thoughts...
Supply Brake Arm (Tension Arm) Dashpot Installed
Okay...this goes back a ways but each of the "tension" arms on the MM-1000 have a dashpot on them; a Pyrex glass cylinder with an adjustable bi-directional pneumatic resistor valve and a graphite piston. The dashpot provides damping to the swinging motion of the tension arm. Helps to keep it from kicking out when you hit PLAY and helps to dampen oscillating motion when fast winding.
My MM-1000 came to me with the dashpot present for the takeup arm, but not the supply arm. Everybody I talked to could only wish me luck finding one.
Well, turns out the manufacturer of the dashpots on the MM-1000 (and I believe the MM-1100 and 1200 too) is a company called Airpot. They are still well and alive and making dashpots in a WIDE variety of sizes and configuations, and wouldn't you know it they make one the proper size for the MM-1000. So I got one awhile ago and I've got it installed now.
Here is the one my MM-1000 came with on the takeup side, the glass tube you see up there in the middle:
And here is how the supply side looked, no glass tube:
Here is the dashpot that came from Airpot...notice it looks a little different as there is a protective ring over the end of the glass tube and a rubber cover...other differences are a slightly larger diameter connecting rod coming from the piston and a nifty ball-joint linkage at the end of that rod...note the knurled knob at the left; that's the valve adjuster:
As nifty as those differences were I had to do away with pretty much all of them because the dashpot was just slightly too long with the protective ring over the end of the glass tube, and without significantly changing how the dashpot connects to the brass tension arm link bar on the Ampex I had to cut off the neat-o ball-joint end of the connecting rod...had to pull the rubber cover off too to get the protective ring off. So, fringe benefit to having to conduct those mods? The thing looks almost identical to the existing dashpot now except for the slightly larger diameter connecting rod...I'm certain I just committed some sort of Airpot sacrilege:
So, there's the cylindrical lug to which the dashpot connecting rod attaches that drops down from the tension arm link bar on the Ampex. I had to just slightly oversize the hole in that so that the new dashpot connecting rod would fit. If you want to see the final result you'll have to watch this video...forgot to take a pic and I'm now far too lazy to go snap one...if you like watching geeky mechanical stuff I think you'll like the video. I mean, I like watching the video, so, uh...nevermind.
YouTube
Okay...this goes back a ways but each of the "tension" arms on the MM-1000 have a dashpot on them; a Pyrex glass cylinder with an adjustable bi-directional pneumatic resistor valve and a graphite piston. The dashpot provides damping to the swinging motion of the tension arm. Helps to keep it from kicking out when you hit PLAY and helps to dampen oscillating motion when fast winding.
My MM-1000 came to me with the dashpot present for the takeup arm, but not the supply arm. Everybody I talked to could only wish me luck finding one.
Well, turns out the manufacturer of the dashpots on the MM-1000 (and I believe the MM-1100 and 1200 too) is a company called Airpot. They are still well and alive and making dashpots in a WIDE variety of sizes and configuations, and wouldn't you know it they make one the proper size for the MM-1000. So I got one awhile ago and I've got it installed now.
Here is the one my MM-1000 came with on the takeup side, the glass tube you see up there in the middle:
And here is how the supply side looked, no glass tube:
Here is the dashpot that came from Airpot...notice it looks a little different as there is a protective ring over the end of the glass tube and a rubber cover...other differences are a slightly larger diameter connecting rod coming from the piston and a nifty ball-joint linkage at the end of that rod...note the knurled knob at the left; that's the valve adjuster:
As nifty as those differences were I had to do away with pretty much all of them because the dashpot was just slightly too long with the protective ring over the end of the glass tube, and without significantly changing how the dashpot connects to the brass tension arm link bar on the Ampex I had to cut off the neat-o ball-joint end of the connecting rod...had to pull the rubber cover off too to get the protective ring off. So, fringe benefit to having to conduct those mods? The thing looks almost identical to the existing dashpot now except for the slightly larger diameter connecting rod...I'm certain I just committed some sort of Airpot sacrilege:
So, there's the cylindrical lug to which the dashpot connecting rod attaches that drops down from the tension arm link bar on the Ampex. I had to just slightly oversize the hole in that so that the new dashpot connecting rod would fit. If you want to see the final result you'll have to watch this video...forgot to take a pic and I'm now far too lazy to go snap one...if you like watching geeky mechanical stuff I think you'll like the video. I mean, I like watching the video, so, uh...nevermind.
YouTube
Last edited: