Alignment tool, tweaker

cjacek

Analogue Enthusiast
Guys,

I have a bit of an issue.... :o

The plastic alignment tools that I bought last year don't seem to work at all on my latest acquisition, the TASCAM 48-OB.

The tools don't fit the 'tape tension' adjustment pots [photos attached]. I tried to make one from a credit card [it fit] but it was impossible to turn [tight fitting]. I need recommendations on what to buy. I don't necessarily wanna go plastic but something which won't pass static or possibly fry the electronics. Any ideas?:confused:

Thanks!:)

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SMI Electronics in Langley has what you want, I think. I got a package of little plastic screwdrivers and adjustments (asst. sizes) for about 9 or 11 dollars. Looks like you need a plastic-tipped Phillips for those adjustments on your 48.

http://www.smi-elec.com/
 
Yeah, I've got the same set of those plastic assorted 'alignment' screwdrivers but none of them is the Phillips type.:o

I called the place you suggest but they don't have the Phillips. In fact, I also called RP Electronics and The Source and nothing...:(

I'd like to get something on line, if possible. This would save me a lot of time.

Remind me, do you have a 48 yourself?:confused:

Anyway, thanks for replying. :)

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Daniel,

Man that's a crisp looking deck!

Did you check Parts Express?

They've got a lot of different stuff, wide product scope but not as deep in some areas, but I know they have tech tools for video applications and there might be something there that works...check it out.
 
What's wrong with earthing a run of the mill flat ended screwdriver & using that? :confused: Just clip a crocodile clip onto the case of your recorder & onto the screwdriver.

Buy the way that is a pristine machine, i'm completely jealous :rolleyes:
 
What's wrong with earthing a run of the mill flat ended screwdriver & using that? :confused: Just clip a crocodile clip onto the case of your recorder & onto the screwdriver.

Buy the way that is a pristine machine, i'm completely jealous :rolleyes:

it may be different here... but i dont think that static is the issue here... it's most probably interference with magnetic resonances... i would run into similar problems with the master oscillators in old organs and such...
 
Tried them all

Well I almost tried them all.

I tend to use a bamboo shish-ka-bob skewer that I shape with sand paper for each use. It is soft enough to give when the force is too high. When it wears out or does not quite fit I reshape it on the sand paper and have a pristine blade as needed. Plus It is cheap and we have 50 of them in the kitchen.

My other tweakers are always moving to some small, dark , corner unknown to me.

Plus in need you can actually put shrimp on them and fire up the BBQ....

-_Ethan
 
it may be different here... but i dont think that static is the issue here... it's most probably interference with magnetic resonances... i would run into similar problems with the master oscillators in old organs and such...

yeah, but the thread starter voiced his concern about "frying the electronics" with static, & that's how you'd eliminate that concern. As for magnetic problems , can't see that being an issue either, i mean it's a plastic pot he's adjusting. Magnetism's only really a problem around the tape path is it not?
 
actually haveing just reread the original post... it's the tensioning adjustments... right??? shouldn't be an issue at all as i see it... as to the rest of it... going just from personal experience... while being careful is always a concern i've never really needed a grounded driver for working on hot stuff... i would worry more about accendently grounding something i shouldn't.... and i do find it necessary to use plastic types on occasion because of inductence and parasitic capacitence issues...
 
Daniel,

Couldn't you demag 'em if they are magnetic?

I dunno Cory..:o

...but speaking of those tools, I don't know if I would risk it not knowing if these [the ceramic ones on ebay] would fit.

Cory, see the 2nd link? Those are near me and are insulated so wouldn't those work? Brian mentioned that it's plastic pots that I'm adjusting so a metal tip shouldn't be a problem and even a magnetized one, would it? Those tools are 'insulated' and so wouldn't they be a good choice? Totally confused here.:confused:

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Hmm...

Well, what I know I've read in the past with other gear is that the non-conductive tool does two things:

1. is gentle on the pot
2. avoids conducting with the body through with the tool passes to reach the pot, which is usually metal.

why #2 is a concern I don't know...grounding? Static conduction? I really don't know.

On the magnetic deal...I've just gotten the impression that you don't want to get anything magnetic near your deck, right? That's why I demagged all my tools.

Daniel...where are those trimmers? Help me locate them on my 48 and I'll tell you what size philips bit you need, and then you'll know what set to get.
 
Cory, the tension trimmers are behind the splicing block. Just remove the 2 screws holding the splice block and you're there.:)

BTW, as for #2, I think it's static conduction which I presume the insulated tools would prevent?

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Cory, the tension trimmers are behind the splicing block. Just remove the 2 screws holding the splice block and you're there.:)

BTW, as for #2, I think it's static conduction which I presume the insulated tools would prevent?

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Non-conductors can be statically charged aswell, honestly i don't see an issue here. Any trimming pot on any transmitter etc that i've worked on ever needed any special tool, we did however use pot trimmers as you can get the feel for it better. Just use a normal driver *carefully* as it's much harder to control the amount of pressure you're applying.
 
Daniel,

Does the manual specify a non-conductive tool (I'm too lazy to look)?

If it doesn't show or dictate the use of non-conductive tool, it is probably fine to use a regular screwdriver, but brian is right that there is the factor of feel and maybe damage but I test-fit a screwdriver bit in one of the pots last night and it turned nice and easy.

BTW I checked and a #1 philips bit fits those trimmers just fine. #2 is too big. The sets from the vendor in the first link include a #0 driver and or a #1.7 (???) driver...don't know what that is. I'd call and ask if the kit includes a #1 equivalent driver. The set in the second link has a #1 driver, but it seems like overkill unless you need all those drivers...

another idea:

Just take a regular #1 driver and wrap electrical tape around the tip just leaving the very tip exposed, or for a nicer appearance put heat-shrink around it.

Cheap but effective.

brian...if the tool is truly non-conductive it should not pass even a static charge...by definition it will not conduct (pass) the electrical charge. Can you describe further?

Daniel, either the insulated, ceramic or plastic tools will do the trick, but if the manual doesn't demonstrate or specify a non-conductive tool, I wouldn't worry about it, or to be cheap and safe mod a regular screwdriver and just be sensitive to not mar the pot. That's what I'd do.
 
a balloon isn't relatively conductive but if you rub it on your head for long enough you'll statically charge it
 
Esd Sop

a balloon isn't relatively conductive but if you rub it on your head for long enough you'll statically charge it


always touch the metal parts of the case before working on it. Standard ESD procedure.

Regards, Ethan
 
Cory, Brian and Ethan, thanks guys!

Cory: The manual does specify, in section 7 - 2 [essential tools required], the use of a 'plastic alignment tool'.. :eek::confused::o

Phillips #1. Got it. I'll ask the eBay seller about the tools but I think I'd like to find something local. Finding a proper alignment tool shouldn't be this hard, should it?:confused::eek:

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Daniel,
Your photos are excellent.
These are very common trim pots. Look carefully at the BOTTOM of the slot. It is flat all the way across, Just like with a screw for a flat blade, except here you have two slots.

A Philips blade is sharpened to a taper or point and so will do a poor job of engaging and will slip. Use a snug fitting flat blade and you'll be fine.

If you wanted to go for perfection you could grind the tip of a Philips blade flat, but why bother? Just use a flat blade that fits snugly.

Also dont worry about ESD in this instance. It's almost certainly not an issue.

Cheers Tim
 
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