Alignment for Fostex R8

A

avieth

New member
Today I noticed my R8 is out of alignment. Track 2 sounds faint but present on track 1, and the same with track 3 on 2, 4 on 3, etc.

Taking a look at the path, I noticed the tape sits a little too high. I have no clue how to fix this though, since the service manual is hard to come by. Can anyone help me out?

Here are some pictures. I probably should have cleaned up for the photo-op :o

picture01vk6.jpg


picture02sh3.jpg
 
Aren't those guides to the left and right of the heads in the photo adjustable?

What manual do you have for your R8 (i.e. how many pages is it)?
 
I have the standard user manual.

No, those orange rollers are oddly not adjustable. After fiddling around for a bit, I discovered that the metal supports under both of the heads are indeed adjustable, and I now know how to fix the problem I described.

I figured I might as well give the machine a complete servicing, so I'm going to use my computer to produce some test tones. I have a Delta 66, which can be set to -10dBv, and I also have an app for my linux machine called speaker-test that can generate sine waves from 1Hz - 20kHz at least. It's OK to use digital audio to calibrate a tape machine, right?
 
It's OK to use digital audio to calibrate a tape machine, right?
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Yes it certainly is, but you will still need some way of verifying that your -10dBv signal coming out of the Delta 66 is actually -10dBv...either a known calibrated VU meter or a True RMS voltmeter that can handle the bandwidth of tones you are using to do your calibration. Plus you will obviously need some way to boost or attenuate the test tone depending on what your meter shows.

I have the standard user manual.
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How many pages is it?
 
I've discovered that the biggest issue. The reel platters are too high. The service manual says they should be 1.5mm from the chassis, but mine are sitting around 2.5mm. This results in the tape rubbing against the side of the take-up reel, as well as the alignment issues I've been experiencing.

The manual tells me exactly how to fix this. What it doesn't tell me is how the hell to disassemble the damn thing. Getting the front plastic faceplate off is simple enough, but after removing every visible screw, the back plastic plate will not come off, and I cannot get access to the part I need to adjust. :mad:

EDIT

I've finally managed to pry (yes, you have to pry) off the rear plastic case. Now I can see the elusive 'cap assy. housing' that the manual tells me to twist and adjust. What it didn't tell me is that it's sealed with glue, so I can't twist it.
 
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The key to twisting those screws is a lot of force :p

Anyways, now the reels sit at the proper height, I'm on to adjusting the tension of the belts that connect the motors and the reel plates. The R8 rewinds much slower than it fast forwards. How do I go about fixing this? Tighten the supply hub, loosen the supply hub? Tighten the take-up hub, loosen the take-up hub?

EDIT

Well, the transport is functioning very well. Now I'm ready to start setting all those parameters on the cards. I've come to the realization that I need to buy a reference tape, and am forced to pay out my ass for an MRL product. I've found the tape I need from an eBay store for $100, but I'm not sure what reference fluxivity I need. 200 nWb/m, 250 nWb/m, G320nWb/m or 355nW/m

Can anyone tell me?
 
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How do you remove the faceplate?? I see 6 things that look like Allen heads on the front, and 4 Phillips head screws on the sides. If it is the 6, what tool do I need. Please reply? Thanx Phil G


avieth said:
I've discovered that the biggest issue. The reel platters are too high. The service manual says they should be 1.5mm from the chassis, but mine are sitting around 2.5mm. This results in the tape rubbing against the side of the take-up reel, as well as the alignment issues I've been experiencing.

The manual tells me exactly how to fix this. What it doesn't tell me is how the hell to disassemble the damn thing. Getting the front plastic faceplate off is simple enough, but after removing every visible screw, the back plastic plate will not come off, and I cannot get access to the part I need to adjust. :mad:

EDIT

I've finally managed to pry (yes, you have to pry) off the rear plastic case. Now I can see the elusive 'cap assy. housing' that the manual tells me to twist and adjust. What it didn't tell me is that it's sealed with glue, so I can't twist it.
Click to expand...
 
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