TASCAM 388: What does it mean when ...?!!

I think if you kept pulling in earnest, likely you'd bust your knuckles before breaking the card.

When they're in the motherboard with 20-odd connections, they can seem impossibly tight!

I had to pull my cards today and only the faulty one was so hard in there that i lifted the 388 off of the table
without moving the card 1mm.
after 5 minutes of subsequent really hard pulling and rocking the card side to side it made a big rip and i had the thing out
luckily without hurting me or something on the machinery.

the contacts on the motherboard underneath reveal no corrosion they look clean, its maybe some sort of "buildup".

my advice is to first try to get some anti corrossive fluid in the contacts and let it sit for a while.
but for that you would need something like a injection needle because its down on the bottom.
i wrapped heavy string through the outer holes in the card this helps a little with pulling.

plus if you have only 1 card that is "stuck" try and remove the other removable ones around that one first
to win more room for your hands this really helps with maneuvering.

all the other rec/play cards came out without much effort!!

you really have to pull like a madman no joke and maybe you hurt yourself and or break the machine.
To the next one who have to do it - be careful.
 
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the contacts on the motherboard underneath reveal no corrosion they look clean, its maybe some sort of "buildup".

It's not really a question of "corrosion"....rather just oxidation over time. That "stuck" card is exactly that.
It may look clean, but a film will develop over the surfaces and if the cards/contacts have not been exercised for a long time....you get connectivity issues.

I've cleaned my 2" deck more than once, and still, sometimes on power up, the main communications card that talks to the remote, has lost contact, and the remote will show a com error.
The first is to pop the card and re-seat it, as that help "clean" the connection.
This is the same thing that happens with your typical guitar volume pot....you don't move it for a long time, then when you do, you get crackling, etc.....that's oxidation.

If the contacts get to a point of actual *corrosion* with heavy crud on them.....you got a lot more work than just a little spray and re-seat. ;)

Caig Gold....applied after cleaning with a de-oxidizer solution...acts as a contact preservative that helps prevent that over time, but it's not forever. Sometimes, you just need to do periodic cleaning and maintenance to keep things in good contact with each other.
 
One day of hassle-free recording then it's 'back to the nonsense!' it seems! It's this flippin' Channel 1 again (the one I THOUGHT I'd sorted!) It was working again fine after reseating - now it's recording a new source but, also, the stuff on the other tracks too. Yes, the new source sound is louder, but the other tracks are getting 'un-mixed' in with it outwith my control (I've done several control tests to make sure I don't have anything else assigned to Track 1, etc.) I'm thinking it might be time to pull this thing apart and start spraying de-oxide everywhere?! Is there a spray you folks recommend? I've come across one in the UK called 'De-Oxit' or summat - seems mighty expensive for what it is but I need to get to the bottom of this so I can begin some 'uninterrupted' recording - I just can't seem to get going for technical complications (& I really need to as time is precious. I just don't have the time for all this farting around! Any time I have this end really needs to be spent making music - it's driving me mad this is!!!)
 
Use A for cleaning, and even in some cases where you need some lubrication but where it's NOT needing a specifrc lubericant product.
I use A to clean the faders on my TASCAM 3500 console, which is what Caig Labs recommended and TASCAM confirmed (and not the "Fader Lube", which one might think should be used on all faders.....though I use their DL100 product, which is pure 100% DeOxit solution, and no solvent.)

Some faders need more specific "lube", as they tend to come packed with a lubricant....so then B could be your option. It's really all about the type of contact material in the fader. Not sure what you would use specifically for the 388 faders....but all the other contacts should be cleaned with A.

C is the same as A....5% DeOxit cleaning solution with 95% solvent.
As I mentioned, they have the DL100 and the D5...both are the same DeOxit cleaner, but one has 95% solvent. The 5% is good when you are dealing with a serious gunk build up situation, as the solvent helps flush away the gunk.
What I found was that with the 5%, I often didn't get the best results, and ended up with a lot of excess solution, especially with those spray dispensers. They tend to deliver way more than needed. They may be good for pots where you need to shot the cleaner into it....but I decided to get some injection needles, and use the DL100. I can place just a single drop where I want it, and it's great for tight places and pots with just a small access hole.
For more easier access struff....I just use a Q-tip or a piece of cotton cloth and go that route.
In any case...with D5 or DL100...you want to use as little as possible and only end up with a thin film on the contacts...not a puddle of DeOxit.
Best way is to apply some DeOxit, clean the contact, and then do a light wipe with a dry Q-tip or cloth....that will leave just the right amount on there....thoguh of course....not always the easiest thing to do when you are cleaning small, hard to get at parts....in which case the spray has some merit as it will shoot the cleaner in there for you....but it always over-sprays, which is why prefer just a bottle of cleaner, and then apply with injection needles (same ones they sell on eBay for filling inkjet cartridges) or Q-tip or cloth.

D is the Caig Gold preservative meant for gold contacts and other precious metals....but I often use it on any contact after I've cleaned & dried with the DeOxit solution. The Gold product will help keep the contacts from premature oxidation.
I especially like to use it on hard to reach stuff that I don't want to have to clean again too soon.

With all products...don't saturate to try and make it "clean better", and don't leave any obvious amount laying there all over everything....always dry up the excess, especially on plastic parts. It's safe for "most" plastics...but you still don't want to leave liquid just laying there.
 
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