Tascam 320b meter lights

Daveg62

New member
Well my trusty 320b needs a lightbulb changed on one of my main meters. Does anyone know what bulb I need for that? I have to pull my whole board out and would like to have the bulb ready before I tear into it. Not really even sure how to get to it. Must I flip the mixer over and take the back panels off? I actually did a re-cap on this board but it's been so long i don't remember seeing the meter lights in there. Any help or instructions would be well appreciated.
 
Well my trusty 320b needs a lightbulb changed on one of my main meters. Does anyone know what bulb I need for that? I have to pull my whole board out and would like to have the bulb ready before I tear into it. Not really even sure how to get to it. Must I flip the mixer over and take the back panels off? I actually did a re-cap on this board but it's been so long i don't remember seeing the meter lights in there. Any help or instructions would be well appreciated.


Good question. I have a M-308 with all the meter lights out. I tried to figure out how to get to them about 5 or so years back and never could get to them. I remember taking all kinds of stuff off and finally said heck with it, I'LL just get a desk light. Maybe somebody that knows will chime in.

Danny
 
I have an M-308B as well.

I agree...change them all.

I'll get back to you in 24-48 hours with some info on how to get to them and where to get replacements if available.

Note that the replacements may be a different style that will require soldering in vs. press-in fuse-type bulbs if that's what was put in at the factory.

Anybody, please jump in if you can get the fella some info before I can.
 
I have an M-308B as well.

I agree...change them all.

I'll get back to you in 24-48 hours with some info on how to get to them and where to get replacements if available.


Lol. Well I sure couldn't figure it out from the wacky exploded view in the manual. But if anybody can figure out how to take it apart, I am pretty sure it would be you Cory.
 
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Yes I was just looking at the manual. Couldn't really figure anything out looking at it. No hurry, I'm just working on a project right now and if I rip into this I need to put it back together the same day. Would be awesome to put led's in it, maybe I'll look into that :)
 
This is the lamp you want:

8V 100mA Axial Lamp 0.16" x 0.8"

They are the solder in type. They also come in 6 and 12 volt for the same price. You may want to get a 6V to try but I'm pretty sure they are the 8V. The lamp circuit is 6V and Teac was pretty consistent, at least with the meter lamps I have experienced, at using 8V lamps in parallel pairs with a 6VDC power rail, or 8V lamps in series an 11VAC power rail. I'm certain they are not the 12V version.

If you want to do LED's you'll likely need to put a current limiting resistor in there.

It is a bit of a PITA to get to the meters and then even more to get to the lamps themselves. Not impossible by any means. Took me about 30 minutes to do the following (and mind you this is on a 308 so you'll have more screws to remove):

1. The first thing you want to do is tip the mixer on its side, and remove the bottom rear panel. This will expose the back end of the channel cards and such as well as the inside of the jack panel. The bottom front flange of the meter bridge housing is sandwiched in between the back of the control surface dress panel and an internal cross-member...I circled these screws in red:
IMG_0862_7_1.jpg



2. Zooming in, these screws are a challenge to get to, but because the meter bridge housing is slotted for the above mentioned screws, you don't have to remove the screws, just loosen them. Tight space, but I used a #2 philips bit and a 1/4" combination wrench. Hold the bit on the screw head with a finger on one hand, turn the wrench with the other. Do each of the screws. There are 3 on the 308, probably 4 on the 312, and likely 5 on the 320:
IMG_0863_8_1.JPG



3. Now gently set the mixer back down with the back facing you. Remove the two screws in each of the left and right plastic meter bridge trim caps...these ones:
IMG_0858_3_1.JPG



4. Once those are removed you'll see two screws on each side that attach the housing to the side rails of the mixer...take 'em out...4 in all:
IMG_0860_5_1.JPG



5. Now, along the back of the mixer at the top of the jack panel are screws that connect the meter bridge housing to the jack panel. Remove those. Again, there are 3 on the 308, probably 4 on the 312, and likely 5 on the 320:
IMG_0861_6_1.JPG



6. You should now be able to work the meter bridge straight upwards. Before you do so, lay a towel across the control surface so you have something soft to lay the meter bridge on...protect that mixer!
IMG_0864_9_1.JPG



7. The meter pairs are held on by two screws. Take those out and that pair will drop out of the housing:
IMG_0865_10_1.JPG



8. Here's where it get's irritating...Unless you want to desolder the VU meter from the PCB (which I don't advise unless it is necessary), its a little tricky to get the meter lense separated from the face of the meter. Teac used a clear tape to hold the lenses on...pretty common, but on the 300-series there are three pieces of tape...one on each side of the lense toward the bottom of the lense, and one on the top middle. Because of the metal bracket that floats between the PCB and the meters (and keeps the meter somewhat aligned) you can't directly access the tape strips in between the pair, or the one at the top. Easiest thing to do is to gently use a razor blade to cut the tape on the sides and then gently lever the lense up at the bottom. If you are careful you can get the lense to separate from the top piece of tape allowing you to lift it free. Be cautious as you don't want to tweak the meter face in the process. Other Teac meters are easier than this. Note: when putting things back together you can use a new piece of tape on the exposed side, or no tape at all. When the meters are back in the housing the whole mess gets held together with hardware. The tape is there to keep things together as it moves down the assembly line IMO. Here are four pictures, step 1 cutting the tape in between the meter pair, step 2 cutting the tape on the exposed side, step 3 levering the lense up, and step 4 the lense finally set free from its bondage:
IMG_0867_12_1.JPG


IMG_0868_13_1.JPG


IMG_0869_14_1.JPG


IMG_0870_15_1.JPG



In that last picture you can clearly see the lamp ready for replacement. Time to turn on that soldering iron! Once the lamp(s) is/are replaced reassembly is the reverse of the above.

;)
 
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Oh man! This forum rocks!!
Thanks so much for posting the pics. It will make life much easier for me. I think I'm definitely going with led's though. I'm thinking maybe 2 blue for each meter, not sure about that though, maybe white. Looks like there should be enough room for the led's and a resistor.
 
Beatz,... you're an animal!

That's another great pictorial for the unwashed masses!:eek:;)

I must spread good rep around before giving it again to sweetbeats!

I like how you got a professional "hand model" for the photo shoot!:eek:;)

I see soldered-in bulbs. That's probably better, since they're still available(?)

I know the larger TEAC meter is easier to work with.

Thanx!:eek:;)
 
Yes, soldered in bulbs and yes still available. Kudos again to evm1024 for spotting them...link at the top of my previous thread.

These meters are the same size as the M-500 meters and others, but a different more difficult design to access...the M-500 meter lenses lock in at the top of the meter body whereas the M-300 lenses are taped...with the M-500 lenses all you have to do is release the tape on each side and up it flips.

I was fortunate on the hand model...couldn't afford a professional so I went to the modeling schools and found some poor sap who did the job for Top Raman...
 
Hey guys, I ordered some blue led's and some 130 ohm resistors. I'm gonna give it a try and see how it looks. I'll post some pics here when i get around to doing it.
 
I did my meter lights last night. Kind of a PITA but man do they look good!!!
Hard to capture with a camera but the led's look really great!

Take note that every other meter the polarity is reversed. Found that out after I had them all soldered in and half the lights didn't work. Good thing I tested it before I buttoned it up, lol! Also the led's just barely fit without putting pressure on the meter when closing it. I had to remove the thin metal shield from the lense to get them to fit (didn't make any difference in appearance) If I would do it again, I would get a smaller size led.
I used digikey Part #365-1201-ND They look perfect, I think they have an 85% light spread, made for sign back-lighting. But get a smaller size if possible, it would make life easier, these were 5mm size

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Hi Daveg62 about the LED for bulb swap you did, I would like to do the same for my 'new' 320B when it finally arrives here. You mentioned -
"Hey guys, I ordered some blue led's and some 130 ohm resistors."

Just a quick electronics newb question (I'll have help with this so I don't fry it just want to have all the right stuff in hand when I go to do it rather than drive my mate nuts while we try and work out what we're doing) with the resistors what voltage etc I have done a quick search and found these are either of them appropriate?

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4ac40287065cf57a2740c0a87e010682/Product/View/R1652
or
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4ac40287065cf57a2740c0a87e010682/Product/View/R1654

Thanks for your help,

Nate
 
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