Tascam 244

[4tracker]

What are the opinions of this portastudio? I bought one yesterday that powers on and works, but it makes a lot of noise. I am going to bring it in for repairs since I live near LA. Any idea how much it would cost to get one back to factory specs?

I have seen some say they like the modern portastudios much more, but when I listen to recordings done with the 244 they're amazing and sound closer to an 8track than any other 4track.

I'd basically like to know everything possible about this machine, so if you have any insight, tips, etc..

 

[A Reel Person]

...

I love this machine. I've made tons of recordings on this unit since new in 1982. You never forget your first TASCAM.

If it makes noise when playing tape it could need belts and idler tires. The belts are a quick fix, but the idler tires are a more substantial teardown.

To get it back to factory specs would take an internal calibration, a relatively complicated affair. If you take it to TEAC they can to it all, & might cost you $150 or so, more or less. What you want is when you record at 0VU, it plays back at 0VU. Like....

 

[4tracker]

What are the opinions of this portastudio? I bought one yesterday that powers on and works, but it makes a lot of noise. I am going to bring it in for repairs since I live near LA. Any idea how much it would cost to get one back to factory specs?

I have seen some say they like the modern portastudios much more, but when I listen to recordings done with the 244 they're amazing and sound closer to an 8track than any other 4track.

I'd basically like to know everything possible about this machine, so if you have any insight, tips, etc..

Thanks. Is it hard to take it apart and calibrate it? I don't really have that skill set so it would have to be easy to attempt myself.

I listened to your 244 recordings. They're my favorite sounding of all yours. How do you compare it's sound vs some other machines?

 

[A Reel Person]

...

Replacing the belts is easy.

Replacing the idler tires isn't what I'd call easy for a novice first timer.

Calibration is relatively complicated.

Most of my 244 recordings would be my older stuff. I was a little more focused and recording in earnest. I did a lot of experimenting and bouncing, but the non-bounced tracks usually sounded better.

It's hard to characterize the 244 sound vs. the other Portastudios, but in general it has less hiss & a richer, more full bodied sound. I believe the 244's 2-band sweepable EQ is a bit better than the other 2-fixed/Mid-sweepable EQ design you'd find on the more modern Porta's. I think with 2-band sweepable EQ it's more versatile and can dial in more specific sounds better. As always, YMMV!

...& thanks for listening, Dude! Come again!

 

[4tracker]

Dave, do you know the best way to route the 244 into a PC?

Do you use the main L/R "line out" and into a 1/8" input on the soundcard?

Or would it be better to use use the 4 "tape outs", and would I need a soundcard that takes 4 inputs to do that?

Which is the best way to get accurate input into the pc? Thanks.

 

[A Reel Person]

...

Either way would work.

The 1/8" Stereo-to-RCA Y-cable into the standard soundcard is the simplest and cheapest way. Do your mixing to stereo on the 244.

Going from (4) Tape Outs to a 4-Input sound interface is more important if you want to do your final mixdown on the puter.

 

[4tracker]

Either way would work.

The 1/8" Stereo-to-RCA Y-cable into the standard soundcard is the simplest and cheapest way. Do your mixing to stereo on the 244.

Going from (4) Tape Outs to a 4-Input sound interface is more important if you want to do your final mixdown on the puter.

Have you tried both, and is there any sound quality differences?

I would like to do final mix on the PC; I don't have a 4-input sound card, though. I have to bring the 244 into TEAC for a few weeks, so I'd like to figure this out in the meantime. If you can elaborate anymore or point me to an article that tackles this I'd really appreciate it.

 

[A Reel Person]

...

I've only used the Y-cable method. It works fine for my purposes.

Some people would advise the other way.

Better is a subjective term in this case.

Preferred method would probably be a more objective definition.

 

[famous beagle]

If you only have a two-input soundcard, then you can only bring two tracks in at a time. So you'd have to bring them in separately and then time-adjust them in your DAW software to sync them up.

Since you said you'd like to mix in the PC, then it would make more sense to use the tape outs.

1. Set up two tracks in the DAW software.
2. Assign your soundcard's left input to track 1 and the right input to track 2.
3. Run cables from 244 tape out 1 to soundcard in L and from 244 tape out 2 to soundcard in R.
4. Play back the 244 and record tracks 1 and 2 on the PC.
5. Add tracks 3 and 4 in the DAW and assing the soundcard's L/R inputs to tracks 3 and 4, respectively.
6. Move the cables on the 244 from tape outs 1 and 2 to tape outs 3 and 4.
7. Play back the 244 and record tracks 3 and 4 on the PC.

Now you have all 4 tracks in the PC. The problem is, although tracks 1 and 2 are lined up with each other, and tracks 3 and 4 are lined up with each other, tracks 1 and 2 won't be lined up with tracks 3 and 4. Even if you try your very best to manually sync them by pressing the play or record buttons at the same time each time, they're not going to line up perfectly because the tape speed will not be absolutely perfect each time. Over the course of a three or four minute song, it's going to drift ever-so-slightly, and it'll add up to a very noticeable difference.

So, you'll need to time shift the tracks (i.e., stretch or squish) in the PC to line them up. Different software accomplishes this different ways, but it's not terribly difficult. It's not the ideal method, but it does work.

The only other way to do this is by recording a sync tone on track 4 of the 244 and using a converter box (like a J.L. Cooper PPS1, PPS2, etc.) to sync the PC to the tape. The problem is that you sacrifice one track (track 4) on your 244 to do this. (The main use of this sync method is the use of virtual or MIDI instruments along with the 4-track. You could record 3 tracks of "real" instruments and then have unlimited MIDI tracks, and the computer would "chase" the tape perfectly.)

Good luck.

 

[4tracker]

If you only have a two-input soundcard, then you can only bring two tracks in at a time. So you'd have to bring them in separately and then time-adjust them in your DAW software to sync them up.

Since you said you'd like to mix in the PC, then it would make more sense to use the tape outs.

1. Set up two tracks in the DAW software.
2. Assign your soundcard's left input to track 1 and the right input to track 2.
3. Run cables from 244 tape out 1 to soundcard in L and from 244 tape out 2 to soundcard in R.
4. Play back the 244 and record tracks 1 and 2 on the PC.
5. Add tracks 3 and 4 in the DAW and assing the soundcard's L/R inputs to tracks 3 and 4, respectively.
6. Move the cables on the 244 from tape outs 1 and 2 to tape outs 3 and 4.
7. Play back the 244 and record tracks 3 and 4 on the PC.

Now you have all 4 tracks in the PC. The problem is, although tracks 1 and 2 are lined up with each other, and tracks 3 and 4 are lined up with each other, tracks 1 and 2 won't be lined up with tracks 3 and 4. Even if you try your very best to manually sync them by pressing the play or record buttons at the same time each time, they're not going to line up perfectly because the tape speed will not be absolutely perfect each time. Over the course of a three or four minute song, it's going to drift ever-so-slightly, and it'll add up to a very noticeable difference.

So, you'll need to time shift the tracks (i.e., stretch or squish) in the PC to line them up. Different software accomplishes this different ways, but it's not terribly difficult. It's not the ideal method, but it does work.

The only other way to do this is by recording a sync tone on track 4 of the 244 and using a converter box (like a J.L. Cooper PPS1, PPS2, etc.) to sync the PC to the tape. The problem is that you sacrifice one track (track 4) on your 244 to do this. (The main use of this sync method is the use of virtual or MIDI instruments along with the 4-track. You could record 3 tracks of "real" instruments and then have unlimited MIDI tracks, and the computer would "chase" the tape perfectly.)

Good luck.

Thanks FB, great info.

I think my PC soundcard has only 1 input, actually. I see 1 line in and a headphone (I assume this is an out). So, just 1 input, right?

Would I have any option in this case?

Or would I be best off buying a usb 4 input soundcard? If so, can you recommend any models? I don't need super high quality. Just something that accurately inputs the 4-track recording.

If I have any other options I am all ears, and thanks a lot.

 

[famous beagle]

I'm almost positive that's a stereo 1/8" line in jack on your PC, as that's by far the most common configuration. So you'd just need to get a dual RCA to 1/8" stereo adapter, and you'll be able to bring two tracks at a time.

 

[4tracker]

I'm almost positive that's a stereo 1/8" line in jack on your PC, as that's by far the most common configuration. So you'd just need to get a dual RCA to 1/8" stereo adapter, and you'll be able to bring two tracks at a time.

Gotcha, thanks and you're right it is a stereo input.

Do you think purchasing a soundcard with 4 inputs is a better idea? I am using Cubase, so I'm not sure how difficult syncing would be in that DAW. Does the Y configuration affect the audio quality at all compared with other methods?

 

[famous beagle]

Geez, I just posted a really long reply, and it just lost it for some reason. Basically, here's the gist:

I think you'll be fine with the line-in jack. Try it first to see if you get any noise (some soundcards that are built-in to the motherboard can be noisy, but some are really clean). If it sounds good, then you're good to go. You can check out a really interesting video here about audio myths with regards to sound quality of built-in soundcards:
Audio Myths Workshop - YouTube

Regarding the adapter you'll need, I've had better luck with this type:
3 5mm 1 8" Stereo Male Mini Plug to 2 Female RCA Cable | eBay

than this type:
Dual RCA Female Jacks to 3 5mm 1 8" Stereo Male Y Splitter Audio Cable Adapter | eBay

Sometimes the second type has trouble making flush contact because of the cramped quarters back there.

You may just have to read up a little in the Cubase manual to figure out how to time-stretch the tracks, but it really shouldn't be difficult at all. With regards to this, it'll make it easier if you frame the song with either some clicks (or staccato notes or something) at the beginning and ending, as this will make it really easy to visually align the tracks when you stretch them.

If you want to hear an example of this exact process (only with Mackie Tracktion instead of Cubase and a Tascam 414 instead of a 244), check out the attached.

Good luck!

 

[4tracker]

Great info, thanks a lot. I dropped my machine off at TEAC today. Hopefully it's reasonable to fix it and I can get on this in a week or two.

That recording is 4-track (+Daw)? Wow, nice recording.

 

[famous beagle]

Thanks! Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

 

[4tracker]

I received some bad news. The 244 will take $350 to get back to factory specs. Eek. The $100 I paid for it, I am now $450 into this old machine. I told them to go ahead and repair it to like new condition. I doubt there are many out there, so if I keep it well-maintained maybe it will gain value over time? haha. Either way, I just want to resurrect this beast so I'm doing something stupid and restoring it. Since I live near TEAC I've saved on all shipping costs. That's how I am justifying it.

 

[A Reel Person]

...

Most of that cost would likely be labor, @ $125/hr., or whatever they charge today.

What did they say was wrong with it, and what's involved to restore it?

 

[4tracker]

Most of that cost would likely be labor, @ $125/hr., or whatever they charge today.

What did they say was wrong with it, and what's involved to restore it?

He had quite a long list on the phone. I just remember belts, pinch rollers, and a motor. I know the VU lights needed replacing, play button was broken, and the cassette area was locked in the wrong position. But honestly, that seems like $75 in parts. So yeah, they are hosing me with ridiculous labor cost. But, I don't know how to fix these, so...I don't really have a choice.

 

[A Reel Person]

Ok,...

Belts will fix any speed or wow issues and any "heads stuck in up position" problem. Pinch roller replacement will fix any remaining speed or flutter issues and some more serious tape-eating issues, and like any other rubber part it will deteriorate over time and need replacement at some point. Personally, I'd be dubious of any motor replacement, but from the description you gave "idler replacement" or "idler tires" replacement would be recommended, (responsible for FF/RW and takeup functions), again (idler tire replacement) is low cost item with a fair amount of labor involved. Button panel is a specialized TEAC part that you may find on other sources (eBay), but is probably less hassle to have TEAC do this one, like one stop shopping. VU meter bulb replacement is labor intensive, but little in parts and not too complicated.

All in all, that sounds fair. Labor costs way more than parts and this unit needs a lot of TLC. However, I'd be interested if the record/repro alignment is included in this cost also. I'd kind of assume it is, but you know what happens when we assume,... If your playback drops off more than about 1/2dB lower than your recording levels, then I think it would benefit from the calibration of the electronics, and I think that's important to include when you have the thing open.

Think of it this way, it can take many hours to do even the seemingly simplest of repairs. If you've seen inside these things, they were a wonder of technology and are quite complicated. The record/repro alignment can take several or many hours of tinkering, depending on how particular you are about getting it spot on perfect, less for "just good enough". More hours for a novice or weekend warrior, probably less for a fully professional tech. Original price was $1200 for the 244, and one in proper working order is still a worthy Portastudio that still holds it's own vs. many other similar or competing devices.

I've refurbished a 244 myself, replacing the rubber parts (1-2 hours) and spending many hours (appx. 8-10 hours) tweaking the record/repro electronics. Of course I was shooting for spot on perfection where that was concerned, but it is a tedious, royal PITA when you get down to it. I turned around and sold this unit for $225, and it was probably worth more, based on my original cost (used), the number of hours I spent, and I guarantee I was selling the unit in much better condition than when I purchased it from the previous owner.

I guess what I'm trying to say is don't sweat the cost. Most people like you and me have bought seemingly good deals then ate our lunch on TEAC repairs, but in the end it's worth it. TEAC will do the repair efficiently and right the first time, and not jack you around endlessly and jack up your unit worst than before, as so many off the street techs might do.

If you don't like it, you can sell it for $450 as "newly refurbished" and I think you'll recoup your costs, if it comes to that. Not sure if this post is any consolation to you, but I think you're doing the right thing if you value the 244 for the great unit it is, and as always YMMV!

 

[4tracker]

Thanks, Dave. I do realize I'm going to eat a loss on it, but I figure that will be made up for with the pleasure of recording, nostalgia, etc. And I asked for factory specs, so I assume I will get that, including all calibration. If not, yes I will take issue with that. How would I know if it isn't calibrated to factory specs?

The money issue blows, but I'm okay with money at this moment which is why I'm just taking the plunge and restoring it. I figure I might have one of the better 244s out there when this is all said and done since I asked for everything repaired/factory spec. Their list of repairs is longer than what I listed, but he gave it to me over the phone and I was outside walking, so I couldn't hear him too well. I'll let you know once I get it back in 2-3 weeks.