Sony TC-366 Reel to Reel tape deck problem

I've owned a TC-366 since 1970, bought it new for $110 when I was in high school. It's having trouble maintaining speed. In looking at the pix on Vintage Texas -age I noticed my running capacitor is different from what he shows.

Here's a link to the back side of my tape deck.

It's labeled as 1.5uF and .5uF both at 250 W.V AC and is good physical shape.

I don't know replacing it will have any effect.

I bought another TC-366 off eBay for parts. Mechanically it's in great shape. I'm thinking of swapping the motors out.

Any thoughts on all this?
 
Well, the motor transplant went well and easy. I transplanted the motor and cap. Improvement, but turns out my "new" idler pulley is not spinning freely on its shaft. When I remove the circlip holding it on the shaft, it spins freely. In investigating this, I determined that the circlip doesn't grip the shaft. With no pulley on the shaft, I was able to slip the clip into the slot with no resistance and it slides right off.

Is my circlip sprung? If so, can anyone advise on where a new one can be found?

Thanks in advance.
 
I guess it's to be expected that an old thread wouldn't get answered. That's OK, as it caused me to research and not give up :-)

I cleaned up the post for the idler pulley and grabbed a circlip off my donor unit from a different pulley and viola! She plays at right speed, high quality music, delightful to my ears.:D ;)
 
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Louis the headstack assembly plate need to come off first.
Then clean all the small pivots and cam controlling the play-lever
located on the right side.
There is also a adjustment screw of the bottom right side of the assembly plate.:)
Link with pictures and info here about 366:
http://www.angelfire.com/electronic2/vintagetx/SONY.html


Hello Vintage Texas,

I am having the same problem....

I turned the adjustment screw as tight as it would go.
Now it stays in the fast forward position, but it still doesnt stay in the play position or the rewind position.

Any ideas as to what I should try next?

Also after I release the knob and it forces itself to the stop position there is a ringing sound from inside. It sounds like a washer that is spinning around a screw.
Could these be related?

Thanks!!!

Also After the knob
 
Question about fuses

I hope this hasn't been asked already.

My Tc-377 works great, but I'm missing the fuse that goes in between the level meters, so the white lights, or the red (Rec) lights do not come one.

Does anyone know what fuse this takes? I tried a 0.8a 240v but that didn't work.

Thanks for the help guys :)
 
I just perused the service manual for the TC-377...a bit baffled here as the only fuses listed in the schematics are related to the PSU...not sure what fuse between the meters you mean as I'm not familiar with the TC-377...can you post a picture?

Here are all the fuses in the TC-377 and their values.

Voltage doesn't matter...amperage does.
 

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Rolf...I "went there" in my mind, but didn't want to insult...plus I got thrown when the OP said "red (REC) lights" and I started wondering "hm..."

Fuses DO work as lamps if you apply the right current to them right? But they have TERRIBLE service life...

How ya been, Rolf?
 
hello
i have a problem with my TC-366 : it does not change speed when i switch from 3 3/4 to 7 1/2; and i cannot put it on 1 7/8 speed
what can be the cause ?
 
and if possible, can somebody explain how the different speeds are obtained?
mechanically, or electronic?
 
We just received a TC-366. My wife used it fine for side one of a tape but when she turned the tape over, it totally stopped working. It is threaded correctly. The knob to select play will not stay in place. Is there an easy fix for this or are we talking big bucks to get it fixed.
 
It is threaded correctly.

If it's as black and white as that I'd guess you haven't threaded the tape correctly.
Having said that, it's not like there are tension arms to thread through or anything.

You're not trying to record on to the back of the tape, are you?
 
I have the same problem. I left it on but it was in idle with a tape loaded overnight. Turned it off in the morning then next time I turned it on, lights come on but no motor movement. I took the back off and noticed some wax had melted and looked like it came from the capacitor. Put in on the shelf, that was 5 years ago. Today I took it apart again, checked some voltage but no motor movement. Capacitor is 1.4 microfarads at 250 volts. Oiled the motor and cleaned all the drives. I would like to get it going and hope it is just the capacitor. Plan to buy a new one tomorrow. The schematic says there is a 0.8 fuse in the power cord circuit but I can find one. There is a square block that may be the fuse but it tests okay. Lights come on but just the motor does not turn. I can turn the motor manually so don't think it is that. Does is sound like the capacitor? Thanks for your help.

OK, but if the deck didn't have any tape loaded while power button was on, the motor is not engaged.
Do you have a voltage-selector on this deck (located on the right side) ?

Check one other thing, take the rear cover off (4 scews inside the rubber-feets)
Turn the power on with tape loaded on the deck, look if the fan moves at all.

Let me know what you find :)
 
That value is common for a"motor-start-capacitor". Leaking its bodily fluids out is a pretty good indicator it is indeed dead. Make sure the machine is unplugged when you go to replace it.
 
My problem was the run/start capacitor which I have replaced. The problem was the old one oozed wax on the main motor, so it will not start. I have been trying to the motor apart. I have everything off except one part which looks like it has an allen key holding in on. Nothing I have fits. Still I figured the motor would come apart but no luck. How do I get the two pieces of the motor apart so I can clean all the wax out? Trouble Part.jpg
 
I replaced it and motor seems to be run fien after I help it get going but once it warms up the wax on teh bearings harders and it will not restart. I am trying to get it apart but can't get the two halves of the motor apart. Not sure what the comment about word processing is.
 
I have the same problem. I left it on but it was in idle with a tape loaded overnight. Turned it off in the morning then next time I turned it on, lights come on but no motor movement. I took the back off and noticed some wax had melted and looked like it came from the capacitor. Put in on the shelf, that was 5 years ago. Today I took it apart again, checked some voltage but no motor movement. Capacitor is 1.4 microfarads at 250 volts. Oiled the motor and cleaned all the drives. I would like to get it going and hope it is just the capacitor. Plan to buy a new one tomorrow. The schematic says there is a 0.8 fuse in the power cord circuit but I can find one. There is a square block that may be the fuse but it tests okay. Lights come on but just the motor does not turn. I can turn the motor manually so don't think it is that. Does is sound like the capacitor? Thanks for your help.

Tape was engaged so motor was running all night. Capacitor problem fixed, now need to get the motor apart to clean out the wax in the bearing but can't get the two halves of the motor apart. I have removed everything I can see that holds the two parts together but they still will not come apart. If I can get them apart I am sure I can clean everything and it will work. Thanks.
 
The word processing thing, is not a comment directed at you. It is my signature, it appears on all my posts. If its below that full width grey line its someones signature.
 
I believe it to mean that music should be recorded onto tape rather than a computer.
 
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