christian666
New member
just to double check,,would the diagram be as if you held the dinn and had circular end facing?
silly question maybe.
christian
silly question maybe.
christian
Replacement Timeline Microlynx power supplies?
- Thread starter troutmask
- Start date
christian666
New member
thank you very much miroslav
christian666
New member
will do miroslav,thanks,,
one more question from the tech who's making the cable.
Is the RJ45 keyboard cable is a 1-1 straight through or a cross over cable or maybe even something else?
this is the the cable that connects the keyboard to the micro-lynx unit,,
would a regular ethernet cable do?
ill update all on the outcome when i get it all together and hopefully running
regards
christian
one more question from the tech who's making the cable.
Is the RJ45 keyboard cable is a 1-1 straight through or a cross over cable or maybe even something else?
this is the the cable that connects the keyboard to the micro-lynx unit,,
would a regular ethernet cable do?
ill update all on the outcome when i get it all together and hopefully running
regards
christian
christian666
New member
thank you miroslav, you've been a great help,respect
talk soon
christian
talk soon
christian
hugo habicht
New member
Hello,
I am new here but I am reading in this thread for a while now and I had also ordered a Cisco power supply as replacement. As one forum member before I noticed that there is no voltage coming out. I then measured between RTN and the ROF pin and there were 24V. The ROF pin is "Remote On/Off" (white cable) and has to be connected to RTN (black cables) in order for the voltages to be active. On the Cisco power supply connector this pin is recessed; I believe this mechanism is used to make the power supply hot pluggable.
Regards,
I am new here but I am reading in this thread for a while now and I had also ordered a Cisco power supply as replacement. As one forum member before I noticed that there is no voltage coming out. I then measured between RTN and the ROF pin and there were 24V. The ROF pin is "Remote On/Off" (white cable) and has to be connected to RTN (black cables) in order for the voltages to be active. On the Cisco power supply connector this pin is recessed; I believe this mechanism is used to make the power supply hot pluggable.
Regards,
Ok, this looks interesting. I also ordered a Cisco a while ago, soldered it up and got nothing. When I checked the voltages I also couldn't get a reading and thought it was DOA. I'm wishing I hadn't binned the power supply now, as the MicroLynx has been gathering dust ever since!
Can you tell me how this affects wiring? I'll order another power supply now and I just want to make sure I can make it work this time. The pinout for the MicroLynx is clear, but should I connect the white to the black cables or something? Any assistance appreciated.
Well the plot thickens! After waiting almost a month for the cisco it arrived yesterday and I can confirm that the white wire needs to be connected to black to get voltages. Now that hurdle has been jumped, it seems I've got more weirdness to contend with.
So when I power on the micro lynx, the data lights for midi, computer, keyboard, system and the on light all blink while the unit makes a click, click, clicking sound. Looks pretty broken, but just thought I'd ask if this is anything close to normal or fixable behaviour. I don't have any cables or devices yet, would it behave like this if nothing was plugged in?
Any thoughts appreciated guys, seriously wouldn't have made it anywhere near this far without this thread!
So when I power on the micro lynx, the data lights for midi, computer, keyboard, system and the on light all blink while the unit makes a click, click, clicking sound. Looks pretty broken, but just thought I'd ask if this is anything close to normal or fixable behaviour. I don't have any cables or devices yet, would it behave like this if nothing was plugged in?
Any thoughts appreciated guys, seriously wouldn't have made it anywhere near this far without this thread!
miroslav
Cosmic Cowboy
These units are 20 years old.
You should open it up and one by one pop out anything/everything that is connected via socket or whatever...the ribbon connectors, the chips on the board...etc....and clean them all with a decent deoxidizer/contact cleaner, and then reseat them.
Be VERY carful of the chips...you have to pry them out gently but firmly and evenly at both ends, otherwise you will bend/snap off a pin...and then you're fucked.
The pins can bend a decent amount, and if they bend a little, you can straighten them out with your finger tip nail...they just have to be properly aligned when you go to put them back into the socket, so you don't end up with on bent or out.
Also make sure you're not carrying any static electricity when you handle them...just ground yourself.
That said....the clicking may be directly related to the PS....but I would do the above anyway, even if you had a brand new OEM PS. Like I said, those units are 20 years old, and you need to clean them to make sure all the connections are solid.
I purchased a used OEM PS recently to have as a spare...hooked it to my working unit, and it made it click, click, click...when I checked the power at each of the legs, one was way off, so the unit wasn't getting the right amount.
With that cisco, make sure you have all the legs properly connected and that the power output +/- is within spec.
You should open it up and one by one pop out anything/everything that is connected via socket or whatever...the ribbon connectors, the chips on the board...etc....and clean them all with a decent deoxidizer/contact cleaner, and then reseat them.
Be VERY carful of the chips...you have to pry them out gently but firmly and evenly at both ends, otherwise you will bend/snap off a pin...and then you're fucked.
The pins can bend a decent amount, and if they bend a little, you can straighten them out with your finger tip nail...they just have to be properly aligned when you go to put them back into the socket, so you don't end up with on bent or out.
Also make sure you're not carrying any static electricity when you handle them...just ground yourself.
That said....the clicking may be directly related to the PS....but I would do the above anyway, even if you had a brand new OEM PS. Like I said, those units are 20 years old, and you need to clean them to make sure all the connections are solid.
I purchased a used OEM PS recently to have as a spare...hooked it to my working unit, and it made it click, click, click...when I checked the power at each of the legs, one was way off, so the unit wasn't getting the right amount.
With that cisco, make sure you have all the legs properly connected and that the power output +/- is within spec.
brainditch
New member
1st Link In This Thread May Well Work
O.K. Folks, so better late than never. For the sake of posterity, the first product linked to:
Mean Well #P50A130-R1BU, available from the following Jameco link:
P50A13D-R1BU: MEAN WELL : 50 Watt Switching Table Top Power Supply 5VDC@4.0A +12VDC@2.0A -12VDC@0.5A DIN-5 : Power Supplies & Wall Adapters
does have the correct pinout as far as I can tell also. It additionally appears to exceed the specs that miroslav has on his OEM supply, but only slightly. It's possible that the ITE "line lump" that miroslav is using is not the original, but a replacement from a former owner (unless you are the original owner- miroslav), as there are some current capacity differences that are lower than those listed in the manual. It's possible that miroslav's unit is doing just fine because his unit doesn't have every option card installed, particularly the third transport, and VITC card, or perhaps because he's not using it to actually run three transports. Obviously the more options are installed the more current the unit is going to demand of the supply.
As most of you may know (but some who do not may benefit from this insight), a power supply should usually never supply a device with more voltage than the unit is spec'd for, but it usually may have a higher current rating than the unit demands. Why? Because more current delivery capability than a unit requires won't usually hurt the unit, indeed the supply will possibly last longer if it can "do its work" more easily without the strain of running closer to its maximum current capacity (which often means producing more heat- a killer of all kinds of components, especially capacitors).
At least until I can get my hands on the components necessary to complete a truer-to-spec supply, going with the aforementioned Mean Well supply may at least give me the ability to test my soon to be shipped fleabay Microlynx without having to go the route that sweetbeats has suggested of modding an ATX supply.
I'll have another look at the Cisco supply specs to examine its capabilities again, if I can find them.
O.K. Folks, so better late than never. For the sake of posterity, the first product linked to:
Mean Well #P50A130-R1BU, available from the following Jameco link:
P50A13D-R1BU: MEAN WELL : 50 Watt Switching Table Top Power Supply 5VDC@4.0A +12VDC@2.0A -12VDC@0.5A DIN-5 : Power Supplies & Wall Adapters
does have the correct pinout as far as I can tell also. It additionally appears to exceed the specs that miroslav has on his OEM supply, but only slightly. It's possible that the ITE "line lump" that miroslav is using is not the original, but a replacement from a former owner (unless you are the original owner- miroslav), as there are some current capacity differences that are lower than those listed in the manual. It's possible that miroslav's unit is doing just fine because his unit doesn't have every option card installed, particularly the third transport, and VITC card, or perhaps because he's not using it to actually run three transports. Obviously the more options are installed the more current the unit is going to demand of the supply.
As most of you may know (but some who do not may benefit from this insight), a power supply should usually never supply a device with more voltage than the unit is spec'd for, but it usually may have a higher current rating than the unit demands. Why? Because more current delivery capability than a unit requires won't usually hurt the unit, indeed the supply will possibly last longer if it can "do its work" more easily without the strain of running closer to its maximum current capacity (which often means producing more heat- a killer of all kinds of components, especially capacitors).
At least until I can get my hands on the components necessary to complete a truer-to-spec supply, going with the aforementioned Mean Well supply may at least give me the ability to test my soon to be shipped fleabay Microlynx without having to go the route that sweetbeats has suggested of modding an ATX supply.
I'll have another look at the Cisco supply specs to examine its capabilities again, if I can find them.
brainditch
New member
OK, just checked the specs for the Cisco PIX 506 ADP-30RB supply. As a reminder since it was a few pages ago the following quote was from the manual (I verified it as a direct quote, no typos):
The Timeline PS is:
"Power Supply Mains
Input 100-250 VAC at 50/60 Hz
15 W nominal, 30 W max.
Output +5 V, 3A max
-12 V, 3A max
+12 V, 1.0A max"
Very important: Do not try to use a supply for a PIX 506E ADP-33AB (the lower current requirement successor to the PIX 506) as the base of a mod for the Microlynx power supply. Here are its specs:
"Output: +5Vdc @ 4A, +12Vdc @ 1A, -12Vdc @ 0.1A (100mA)"
The PIX 506 ADP-30RB specs:
"Output: +5Vdc @ 3A, +12Vdc @ 2A, -12Vdc @ 0.2A (200mA)"
The ITE #UP30430 specs (miroslav's supply):
"Output: +5Vdc @ 3A, +12Vdc @ 2A, -12Vdc @ 0.3A (300mA)"
The Mean Well #P50A13D-R1B specs (1st supply linked to by the OP):
"Output: +5Vdc @ 4A, +12Vdc @ 2A, -12Vdc @ 0.5A (500mA)
OK, so none of the supplies above quite get up to the specs in the manual, but since the ITE version may be completely unavailable (I haven't found a source for it, anyway) my advice would be to get a supply that gets as close as possible to factory specs as far as its current delivery, which appears to be the Mean Well version, especially since it comes with an apparently pin-compatible DIN 5 already attached.
The very best means of getting a replacement supply for the Microlynx would be to follow the manual's specs to the letter, as we don't have any techs or engineers to consult if we should have mysterious problems with our aging units, particularly if there is a potential danger to certain irreplaceable components should the supply sag too much from excessive current demands (see below).
Any supply too far down on the current delivery options and you're likely to have problems (such as the chattering relay syndrome miroslav mentioned, or worse- if the sagging supply should happen to cause an irreplaceable EPROM to fail).
Last point, until or unless I can get a look at the schematics for the System Unit, I can't say for sure whether some internal circuitry is utilizing the +12Vdc or -12Vdc "rails" for something critical, or whether it was only meant to feed the pins mentioned on the transport to interface with the outside world.
Anybody have copies of schematics for the boards they'd be willing to share or sell? Please let me know if you do.
In the mean time, I did have an in-depth look at the cable schemos (thanks once again miroslav!), and so far here are the only cables that utilize the 12V rails for external cabling, which might be more critical to have adequate supply current delivery for:
1. JVC Type B-Y(70D112A).pdf utilizes pin 37 (+12Vdc) tied to pin 8 (PULLUP COM, also described as Pull-up Common in the manual- strange but true)
2. Studer A-80(70D084B).pdf utilizes the same pin 37 tied to pin 8 as the JVC Type B-Y above
Of course, as I have discovered to my chagrin, the pdf cable schemo files miroslav was able to share with us in the following thread are incomplete (particularly for the one connection I'm left hoping to make- to an Alesis AI-2 - anybody have this or a cable for that unit?):
https://homerecording.com/bbs/gener...and-gear/micro-lynx-tape-deck-daw-352911/new/
Of Note: I don't know whether a sagging supply fed to the outside world could cause an unexpected problem with the units it is attached to, but I suppose it is conceivable that an absolute failure of our Microlynxes could cause collateral damage to some interfacing component of let's see- one of our expensive to repair or irreplaceable ATR's (heaven forbid!).
Anyway, that's hopefully some food for thought as far as replacement Microlynx power supplies are concerned.
The Timeline PS is:
"Power Supply Mains
Input 100-250 VAC at 50/60 Hz
15 W nominal, 30 W max.
Output +5 V, 3A max
-12 V, 3A max
+12 V, 1.0A max"
Very important: Do not try to use a supply for a PIX 506E ADP-33AB (the lower current requirement successor to the PIX 506) as the base of a mod for the Microlynx power supply. Here are its specs:
"Output: +5Vdc @ 4A, +12Vdc @ 1A, -12Vdc @ 0.1A (100mA)"
The PIX 506 ADP-30RB specs:
"Output: +5Vdc @ 3A, +12Vdc @ 2A, -12Vdc @ 0.2A (200mA)"
The ITE #UP30430 specs (miroslav's supply):
"Output: +5Vdc @ 3A, +12Vdc @ 2A, -12Vdc @ 0.3A (300mA)"
The Mean Well #P50A13D-R1B specs (1st supply linked to by the OP):
"Output: +5Vdc @ 4A, +12Vdc @ 2A, -12Vdc @ 0.5A (500mA)
OK, so none of the supplies above quite get up to the specs in the manual, but since the ITE version may be completely unavailable (I haven't found a source for it, anyway) my advice would be to get a supply that gets as close as possible to factory specs as far as its current delivery, which appears to be the Mean Well version, especially since it comes with an apparently pin-compatible DIN 5 already attached.
The very best means of getting a replacement supply for the Microlynx would be to follow the manual's specs to the letter, as we don't have any techs or engineers to consult if we should have mysterious problems with our aging units, particularly if there is a potential danger to certain irreplaceable components should the supply sag too much from excessive current demands (see below).
Any supply too far down on the current delivery options and you're likely to have problems (such as the chattering relay syndrome miroslav mentioned, or worse- if the sagging supply should happen to cause an irreplaceable EPROM to fail).
Last point, until or unless I can get a look at the schematics for the System Unit, I can't say for sure whether some internal circuitry is utilizing the +12Vdc or -12Vdc "rails" for something critical, or whether it was only meant to feed the pins mentioned on the transport to interface with the outside world.
Anybody have copies of schematics for the boards they'd be willing to share or sell? Please let me know if you do.
In the mean time, I did have an in-depth look at the cable schemos (thanks once again miroslav!), and so far here are the only cables that utilize the 12V rails for external cabling, which might be more critical to have adequate supply current delivery for:
1. JVC Type B-Y(70D112A).pdf utilizes pin 37 (+12Vdc) tied to pin 8 (PULLUP COM, also described as Pull-up Common in the manual- strange but true)
2. Studer A-80(70D084B).pdf utilizes the same pin 37 tied to pin 8 as the JVC Type B-Y above
Of course, as I have discovered to my chagrin, the pdf cable schemo files miroslav was able to share with us in the following thread are incomplete (particularly for the one connection I'm left hoping to make- to an Alesis AI-2 - anybody have this or a cable for that unit?):
https://homerecording.com/bbs/gener...and-gear/micro-lynx-tape-deck-daw-352911/new/
Of Note: I don't know whether a sagging supply fed to the outside world could cause an unexpected problem with the units it is attached to, but I suppose it is conceivable that an absolute failure of our Microlynxes could cause collateral damage to some interfacing component of let's see- one of our expensive to repair or irreplaceable ATR's (heaven forbid!).
Anyway, that's hopefully some food for thought as far as replacement Microlynx power supplies are concerned.
miroslav
Cosmic Cowboy
I have two of them...they are the same, no differences. I even had a third one that I picked up, but it had some issues, so that one got tossed.
Did Timeline change the PS over the years...?...maybe...but these are the OEM power supplies.
brainditch
New member
A Needed Request For Microlynx Supplies Used-Please!
Miroslav- It's good to know for certain that the ITE #UP30430 is in fact at least one of the possibly available power supplies that TimeLine recommended, and supplied for the Microlynx. So to be as carefully logical as possible, especially as we're attempting to unmuddy the waters for our own sakes and for posterity- let me first ask if there are any users out there who have any different supplies that were provided with their Microlynx's?
This will be important to sort out now, before the trail gets cold, whether in fact the manual's power supply spec contains a typo!
What we've got so far, for the North American continent (correct miroslav?):
miroslav = All three supplies were ITE #UP30430
[MENTION=79692]sweetbeats[/MENTION] - Did you get a dead supply that matched miroslav's or was it simply missing, which caused you to do the ATX supply mod?
[MENTION=31942]jpmorris[/MENTION] ? OEM supply matching miroslav's, or did you have to source your own?
[MENTION=101872]timkroeger[/MENTION] ? Especially please respond Tim, as your being in Europe might have forced a different choice of supplier for the part from the TimeLine folks, also I believe I read you at one time had 8 or more Microlynx units from that massive lot buy- any supplies thrown in with the lot?
@ anyone not mentioned above, please chime in?
Miroslav- It's good to know for certain that the ITE #UP30430 is in fact at least one of the possibly available power supplies that TimeLine recommended, and supplied for the Microlynx. So to be as carefully logical as possible, especially as we're attempting to unmuddy the waters for our own sakes and for posterity- let me first ask if there are any users out there who have any different supplies that were provided with their Microlynx's?
This will be important to sort out now, before the trail gets cold, whether in fact the manual's power supply spec contains a typo!
What we've got so far, for the North American continent (correct miroslav?):
miroslav = All three supplies were ITE #UP30430
[MENTION=79692]sweetbeats[/MENTION] - Did you get a dead supply that matched miroslav's or was it simply missing, which caused you to do the ATX supply mod?
[MENTION=31942]jpmorris[/MENTION] ? OEM supply matching miroslav's, or did you have to source your own?
[MENTION=101872]timkroeger[/MENTION] ? Especially please respond Tim, as your being in Europe might have forced a different choice of supplier for the part from the TimeLine folks, also I believe I read you at one time had 8 or more Microlynx units from that massive lot buy- any supplies thrown in with the lot?
@ anyone not mentioned above, please chime in?
brainditch
New member
Update: I just ordered a Mean Well "line lump" supply from Mouser, that apparently supersedes the Mean Well part that I mentioned above (Mouser catalog lists the above part as "obsolete"), it is:
Mean Well #GP50A13D-R1B
Note that the only differences in the part number is the addition of the letter "G" as a prefix (from "Green Built", meaning I presume more energy efficient).
Mean Well #GP50A13D-R1B
Note that the only differences in the part number is the addition of the letter "G" as a prefix (from "Green Built", meaning I presume more energy efficient).
miroslav
Cosmic Cowboy
Yes...North America...though these OEM PS units work with anything from 100-250V ~ 50-60Hz...so I don't think there were different ones for other parts of the world.
I'm looking at my spare, and yes, on the front label: LZRelectronics, Inc. - Part Number LZUS4301
On the back label: ITE Power Supply - Model No. UP30430
I assume the back numbers are those of the manufacturer in Taiwan...and the front label is the retailer name/number.
Input: 100-250V ~50-60Hz 1.2A
Output:+5V 3A, +12V 2A, -12V 0.3A
The one I am actively using is the same as this spare....and the one that I tossed (it may still be around in somewhere) was also the same. I mean, I would certainly have noticed if it wasn't the same, and the only reason I bought it from a music store out in California, was because it was the same as the others.
So yes, I'm pretty confident that this was/is the OEM power supply for the Microlynx...and I don't think it mattered how many transport cards were installed.
IOW...the PS could handle any configuration.
miroslav
Cosmic Cowboy
This is "almost" the same...but there is only 1A on the +12V leg...where the OEM is 2A. Also, this one gives you 5A on the +5V leg, where the OEM only has 3A, but that's not a problem.
OEM ITE UP3043K-3 DC POWER SUPPLY ADAPTER FOR DIGIBOARD +5V +12V -12V 8 PIN PLUG | eBay
Here is what looks like the exact same thing as the OEM unit...thought they are sold out...but they may be able to source it for you.
ITE UP30430 AC Adapter 12V 2A -12V 0.3A 5V DC 3A 5Pin Power Su [ITE UP30430 AC Adapter 12V 2A] ,Cheap High quality ITE UP30430 AC Adapter 12V 2A -12V 0.3A 5V DC 3A 5Pin Power Su [ITE UP30430 AC Adapter 12V 2A] : Laptop Battery, Supply Notebook Batter
Here's another one...but I wouldn't give my CC info to this site on a bet...it just looks/feels funny to me. The "About" section talks of women's fashions, yet they are selling this under men's stuff...etc. I think it's some scam site...so your risk.
ITE POWER SUPPLY MODEL UP30430 OUTPUT RTN -12v RTN +12V 5V 1.2a [263009849729] - $14.99 : Sharpstar.top
This place looks like some sort of computer supplier...and they list the ITE PS part number (scroll down)...might be a safe bet.
Power Supplies Specialized
OEM ITE UP3043K-3 DC POWER SUPPLY ADAPTER FOR DIGIBOARD +5V +12V -12V 8 PIN PLUG | eBay
Here is what looks like the exact same thing as the OEM unit...thought they are sold out...but they may be able to source it for you.
ITE UP30430 AC Adapter 12V 2A -12V 0.3A 5V DC 3A 5Pin Power Su [ITE UP30430 AC Adapter 12V 2A] ,Cheap High quality ITE UP30430 AC Adapter 12V 2A -12V 0.3A 5V DC 3A 5Pin Power Su [ITE UP30430 AC Adapter 12V 2A] : Laptop Battery, Supply Notebook Batter
Here's another one...but I wouldn't give my CC info to this site on a bet...it just looks/feels funny to me. The "About" section talks of women's fashions, yet they are selling this under men's stuff...etc. I think it's some scam site...so your risk.
ITE POWER SUPPLY MODEL UP30430 OUTPUT RTN -12v RTN +12V 5V 1.2a [263009849729] - $14.99 : Sharpstar.top
This place looks like some sort of computer supplier...and they list the ITE PS part number (scroll down)...might be a safe bet.
Power Supplies Specialized
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