Looking for a Brenell 1A fuse or similar

dillweed4

New member
Hi there,

I'm looking for a two-pin 1A fuse that looks like this - can't seem to find one, maybe I don't know the correct name:

776964577_o.jpg

Thanks,

Will.
 
Looks more like a simple jumper to select the local voltage?

Plus, there's a fuse holder just to the right of it in your picture. Maybe it says "fuse" on it as a reminder that you might need a different fuse depending on the voltage selection?

Have the manual, and if so, does it document anything about what I just mentioned?

Cheers! :)
 
Yes I know what you mean, however the 'fuse holder' seems to be a pot actually, it can go a certain amount both ways but then stops, it isn't a screw. I thought maybe it was the bias control? perhaps this will help it's the exact circuit I'm using (the power unit circuit):

mk5s2cd2.jpg
 
The schematic clarifies it. Thanks.

That is one unusual fuse indeed!

If you can't find an OEM fuse to replace it, all I could suggest is soldering one on externally to the blown one, leaving enough room on the contact poles to still insert it and make contact OR solder a fuse on the backside of that panel connector to get it going again.

Do you know why the fuse blew in the first place?

Cheers! :)
 
Thanks for confirming! That picture isn't actually mine I just have that power section, its missing the 1A fuse. I'll go buy one and solder it on externally in that case. Its from a Brenell Mk5 Mark II by the way :-) i got a few parts of a broken machine (PSU and preamp section) and am making a standalone amp hopefully.

so that pot IS the bias control then?

Thanks!
 
so that pot IS the bias control then?

Thanks!
I have no idea about that one. The only variable resistor on that schematic is for the VU meter, as far as I could tell. Perhaps there are additional diagrams that you're missing which might explain that pot in proper detail as VU calibration pots are normally part of VU meter's physical casing.

Cheers! :)
 
I disagree - it's just that the circuit is draw a little oddly - I'd expect the fuse shown is the fuse holder in the picture, and the out of the fuse holder goes to the large pin, and the link goes to the transformer taps. There is only one fuse shown, so it has to be a simple link plug.
 
Cool, I will wire it up and see if all is good. Should really find a little cover for the fuse as well I'm thinking for safety.
 
does that white rubber looking cover pull off of that jumper? If so you could then replace the fuse?

In addition to the meter calibration pot there is another across what look like might be the filament supply (bottom left of transformer). that would be adjusted for minimum hum.
 
Brenell!

"Now that's a name I haven't heard in a looong time!" Used to run one as a mono backup machine to a Fer'graph 7.

There IS another pot, balance in the heater supply, called a "humdinger" that way back.

The fuse: Yes, probably unobtainable now but you could try the Antique Radio Society of Great Britain.
As suggested, I would simply get an insulated inline fuse holder.

Dave.
 

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Brenell!

"Now that's a name I haven't heard in a looong time!" Used to run one as a mono backup machine to a Fer'graph 7.

There IS another pot, balance in the heater supply, called a "humdinger" that way back.

The fuse: Yes, probably unobtainable now but you could try the Antique Radio Society of Great Britain.
As suggested, I would simply get an insulated inline fuse holder.

Dave.

Great - many thanks! Can't wait to fire this up... When it's running I'll post something about it... All in all spent way too much time and a little much money on this but did it more for the fun and learning of it rather than affordability... you know how it is :-) Man some valves ain't cheap to come by on eBay!
 
Yeah, tell me about it. I need eight 6386 valves.....

For what application? This..
http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/142/6/6386.pdf shows that the ECC82/12AU7 would be a fairly close equivalent except that 6386 is an extremely rugged, very high reliability type. The ECC82 is however very reliable in normal audio circuits. "We" use them in several amplifier models and I am not aware of any failures in 4 years or so.

Ah! You would have to rewire the heater pins. Belay all that, I am talking bollocks! You would have to rewire the bloody lot!

Dave.
 
Compressor use. There really is no "equivalent", at least that I have found. Ive heard of using 6BQ7s or similar (6CB7?), but one is 9 pin the other 7, needing to use even more valves to accomplish the same thing....

Sooner or later I'll find a carton of them NOS in one of the Military surplus stores that I haunt.
 
So I finally got round to firing up the Brenell preamp, ran a bass through it and sounded great for about 5 minutes! After that there was a nasty load of smoke and liquid coming from the power supply! It was brown, check the photos below. Pretty sure it came from the big blue capacitor thing, you can see the sticky strands on the underside in one of the pics. Need to get a new one I take it, can't figure out what it's meant to be from the schematic I posted on the last page??

WP_20140917_005.jpgWP_20140917_002.jpg
 
Yeah, if you read through any of the restoration threads here and elsewhere, changing out old electrolytic capacitors is pretty standard for any gear 25 years old or older.

Cheers! :)
 
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