Ampex MM-1000 Story...

I've gone through all the relays. Most of the contacts looked pretty good, and not surpisingly the ones that didn't were usually tied in some way to R3, the tension resistor with burnt wiring. BTW I pulled R3 from my parts relay box along with clamps and wiring to replace those bits in the keeper relay box. Also got those same parts pulled from the keeper box so the next step is to put the replacement stuff in, put the relay box back in the transport and see if things are working any better.
 
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Yah...you know this already but for everybody else's benefit I'm hoping to have it up and running in the next 30 days. Ethan is loaning me his 1" MRL. It is on sticky-prone tape stock but he has used it seccessfully on his MS-16. He's baking it at this time and that'll last, he figures, maybe 30 days so I want to have the transport back together within that window to get it calibrated. I'm sure Ethan would bake it again for me or I could just wait but it is good to have a goal and having that time sensitive goal will help keep me from going in too deep...deeper than often is necessary on these kinds of things.

Hey here's a fun tidbit that I think I understand...This is from specifications section in the manual regarding the "Electronic Overload Margin":

"Record Amplifier: record level (before clipping) is 28 dB or more above normal operating level"

Does that equate to lots of dynamic headroom on the record amp side? Like these suckers will take a (signal) beating without breaking a sweat?

Another thing I forgot to mention in my last post is that in the process of cleaning the relay contacts I found a stray wire end that wasn't clipped off well after soldering to the lug of the contact reed...I could see where there was scorching on the mating contact and I wonder if it wasn't possibly arcing which could cause something run when its not supposed to, or cause something to not run when it should. We shall see but that sucker got pruned back.
 
Man it looks like things are going well at this point Cory. If you think about it in30 days we will be close to Christmas. So let me know when it's done and you can dress up as Santa and park that beast in my living room. AH, who am I kidding, forget the Santa outfit just drop off my new reel when your done fixing it. Keep up the good work.
 
Hm...Ed that is really tempting and all but...:D

Although the glow of the record button is certainly reminiscent of Rudolph's schnoz...
 
The control relay box is back together, relay contacts cleaned and burnt wiring replaced.

I got some more components off the transport plate. I want to get the tape path cleaned up real good and clean up the dress panel. Have to get all the stuff off of it to remove it from the machine so it can be properly cleaned and polished.

This is also a nice way to get familiar with how it goes together.

Coming along.
 
I got the rest of the tape path components off so I could get the dress panel off and give everything a good cleaning and polish up the dress panel. I really don't mean to go on and on about this, but I am really enamoured with this thing...that's part of what we do here right? Share our enthusiasm for the machines in our midst? :o

Here is how Matilda looks right now:

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In this next picture I want to draw your attention to the transport plate itself...again, this is solid steel plate over 1/2" thick that also has sides to it (like an upside down shallow box) that are of the same thickness and over 5" deep. It gets welded together, is surface milled, and then is heated to relieve stresses and then the section to which the tape path components attach is precision-milled. That's the section of the plate in the lower part of the picture. The mill marks are so fine it is shiny when viewed from an angle.

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And for scale here is one of the tension arms in my hand...big.

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Another shot of the capstan shaft to give a sense of the size:

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Here are a couple of the incoming rollers to the headblock...the one on the left is a guide, the one on the right is the reel idler which reduces flutter. The reel idler has a flywheel on the underside of it which is a special unit that is filled with a special silicon oil. When the transport is in stop mode and then started an internal ring doesn't move with the housing so the idler starts up easier. As it comes up to speed the oil moves to the outside of the housing grabbing the internal ring increasing the inertia so the idler can properly do its job.

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Here is a shot of that oil filled flywheel:

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And lookit the reel tables...and you can just barely see part of the motor shaft which are (I think) 1/2" in diameter...

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Even the grounding block for the headstack is a nice machined chunk of metal...

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And here is the dress panel that is, in part, responsible for all this disassembly. I wanted to get it off of there because there is (as you have seen) dust, dirt, grime, oxide shed and such in all the nooks and crannies, and I wanted to know how it all goes together anyway plus be able to clean and lube stuff...surprisingly most of the bearings seem in pretty good order...

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Now that I've removed some of the lower rack mount components I can get to the underside a little better. Here is a better shot of the supply reel motor assembly...that stack is over 12" tall...:eek: And look...there is an additional thick aluminum mounting plate in addition to the thick transport plate. Oy.

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And here is another shot of the capstan motor array on the right in the picture...the takeup motor is behind it:

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Here is a short video covering some of this:

YouTube

I'll get this stuff all cleaned up, put it back together and see where things are at function-wise. I want to get the transport running decently so I can do something of a calibration with the baked cal tape I borrowed from Ethan before it goes sticky again...:eek::D

Parting thought: it looks vintage in appearance, and there is such an overdone mass in an engineering sense...the transport is/would be considered crude by some, but there is such a delicate refinement in terms of the precision, craftsmanship and attention to detail. Indeed, "they" do not make "them" like this anymore.
 
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"matilda" eh? she has a name....:) looks like it's coming along real clean man, you still on track for finishing before christmas?
 
Just a heap of random updates here...

I got the dress panel cleaned up. I was surprised with how well it shined up. It has plenty of nicks and scratches, but it looks a whole lot better than it did.

Look at the picture of the supply motor assembly in my lat post...the device at the bottom is a motion-sensing unit. There is a microswitch that gets actuated one way or the other depending on which way the reel motor is rotating. I could see that it wasn't working right as there was nothing connecting the actuator and the switch and I couldn't figure out exactly what was missing. Then I saw a little super-thin U-shaped metal piece sitting on the bottom of the sensor assembly bracket. Phew! Now I just have to figure out how it goes together...

I figured out how to get the pinch roller assembly off...took that apart ad cleaned everything up. The bearings are OK for now as is the rubber, though I had to work that for awhile to get it serviceable.

Got the overbridge and back of the electronics shop-vac'ed as well as the top of the transport...looking better already.

Completely disassembled the reel idler roller assembly and cleaned that, and also disassembled and cleaned both rolling guides. All these bearings are OK for now but I took measurements and notes and at some point I'm going to source spares.
 
Its time for some more pictures...

Plugging along.

You can refer to post #67 for some before pics of some of the "after" pics below.

Duddy, not sure if it'll be ready for Christmas. :D Though it has been moved from the unheated shop to the sunroom adjacent to the garage where its new home will be...hard to work on it in 25F temps...

A pile of cleaned up parts to soon be reinstalled...guides, idlers, part of a reel hold-down, tension arms...

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I just had to share this...this is the center cap to the reel hold-down. Its purpose in life is to make sure you don't unscrew the knob too far, and to look nice. They could have done this with a plastic disk...this is a black anodized piece of metal...not sure if it is aluminum or steel but it has a precision finish on it...Overkill and pretty.

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This is the static guide that is in between the counter roller and the takeup tension arm. It was all rusty looking and had sticky shed on it.

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Pinch roller and bracket assembly. Cleaned up pretty good. I think the roller is serviceable but it is still a little glazey. I'm glad I figured out how to get it off the machine though...had to mod an allen key to do it but the alternative is to have to press out a roll pin on the pinch roller arm which is a no-no. Difficult to do without damaging stuff. I'm hoping there is enough adjustment in the position of the bracket when I remount it on the arm because I noticed before removing it that the axis of the roller was not the same as the capstan shaft so the roller would touch the shaft at the bottom but there was a slight gap at the top. I think it is a mounting issue and not that anything is damaged.

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This is the mounting plate with one of the rolling guides and reel idler roller just prior to the headblock.

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Here's how the transport plate looks at present...maybe hard to tell but there's a lot less dirt and yuck on it. Interestingly enough I realized that the sides of the inverted "box" that makes up the transport plate are actually bolted on with healthy-sized socket head cap screws...you can see them around the perimeter of the plate...all precision stuff. Makes sense to do it that way because when you weld metal the metal tends to distort and pull toward the joint as it cools...probably would be difficult to keep a precision surface or remachine the surface if the box sides were welded on.

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On to the sync module...this is the 2U rack-mount box that mounts at the top of the lower-left rack in the console and I think its purpose in life is to simply bring several of the components/adjustments of the electronics modules to one place that is in the front of the machine. The relays in there I think are the record relays, and also in this box are the sync level trimmers and the sync bias traps...this box might also have something to do with the record and sync enable functions on the remote. I need to study the schematics to understand what all this thing does, but it'll be nice not to have to climb around the machine to adjust these things. Now here's the point...lookit how clean it is...! I'm not kidding...it was pretty scungy on the outside, at least on the faceplate, but inside it looks new. Pretty good for 40 years old.

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And here is the faceplate after cleaning it up:

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Here's a pic of the transport dress panel all shined up that I mentioned in the last post:

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And in the "everything's bigger on an old Ampex" category, here's a shot of one end of the remote cable I recently sourced:

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The remote cable has a catch...it has been accidentally cut in two which is why I only paid $50 for it. Think I'm nuts? 104 conductors, spendy Winchester connectors, 24' in length. It was cut into one 4' piece and one 20' piece during a salvage operation. But, for certain, the parts alone would cost WAY over $50, and all I need to get to fix this is a bag of the pins and I'll have a 20' remote cable which will do me fine. It'll be a project, and fortunately I don't really have any need for the remote any time soon so this will go on the shelf for later but I snapped it up because cables like this, when you can find them, tend to go for $200 to even as high as $300. Here's a shot of a cut end. Fat cable. Yep.

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I leave you with this thought...Nobody builds machines to break down right? As consumers we expect our equipment to be reliable. I was pondering the other day the whole reality that the MM-1000 was based on an Ampex quad video machine and whether or not that seems kind of kludgey, but really, if I think about a professional A/V environment in which you would consistently absolutely have to have equipment that will run without fail wouldn't it be in professional video broadcast? Think of the advertising machine that drove and continues to drive that marketplace...no slip-ups allowed...Ampex quad video machines were an industry standard and had been field tested years and years over before Ampex used one as a bed for the MM-1000. Yes they did it in a pinch to meet a dawning demand for larger format audio production machines, and the MM-1000 was arguable TOO big, but it also seems to be they weren't haphazard in their selection of off-the-shelf parts/systems to quickly bring something to market. And I'm not saying that audio production is/was a lax environment...lots of dollars and pressures riding on every minute of studio time, it just seems to me in my mind that the scope becomes larger when you are talking about video broadcast gear vs. multitrack audio production gear.
 
Finally got the whole transport surface cleaned up and I'm working on cleaning up the rear of the console as well as the compenents back there since that stuff will be hard to get to once I roll this thing into place. So now that the transport surface and surrounding area has been cleaned up I can start putting the tape path back together.

I'll save before and after pics of the back of the unit for later, but check this out...I wanted to clean up and straighten the power receptacle panel. It was bowed in because, at some point in its life, somebody backed this thing into a wall with the big power cable plugged in, and this 2U rackmount panel that holds the power receptacle and remote plug gave in to the momentum of 500~600lbs of tape machine.

Here are before and after pics:

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I used a good bench-vise and a shop press and some blocks to straighten it out. It only took about 15 minutes total to straighten it and clean/polish it up. I also straightened a 2U blank panel which I believe was original to the MM-1000 but was mounted in the Ampex upright rack that came with the MM-1000. It was messed up bad...it is pretty heavy-guage steel and it was straight on the top but had a healthy 'S' bend on the bottom, a dent in the face and one of the "ears" was tweakered pretty bad. You can hardly tell now.
 
Its coming back together...

Pictures to follow soon...

Got most of the transport back together...the problem with the supply motor brake is definitely mechanical but I can't figure it out yet. Anyway, its looking good...
 
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Absolutely wild project! I'm totally impressed with your technical know-how and courage to undertake a restoration like this! How many man-hours do you think it will take you to complete this project?

I'm really looking forward to seeing some completed pictures of this beast and hope you can back up far enough to get the whole thing onto your camera screen without cutting off corners of it! :D If you have the available height, I'd suggest getting up on a ladder so that you can take a nice top down, left front perspective shot that's evenly lit without any obvious shadows and then I can gussy it up in Photoshop for you! :)

Cheers! :)
 
How about a Merry Christmas to me update?

Man it looks like things are going well at this point Cory. If you think about it in30 days we will be close to Christmas. So let me know when it's done and you can dress up as Santa and park that beast in my living room. AH, who am I kidding, forget the Santa outfit just drop off my new reel when your done fixing it. Keep up the good work.

Cory, I'm starting to get a little concerned because it's 5 days till Christmas and you haven't asked for my address yet. I know I know, I was really going to ask when you were going to post more video. I enjoy looking at them.
 
Heheh...Ed, I thought you were coming to pick it up...oh yeah...I didn't give you MY address either. :)

I don't think its going to be ready for Christmas folks, but its coming along. I got the Control Box all ready to remount, The 39V supply panel and boxes all cleaned, inspected and ready to remount, and the remainder of the console about 50 percent cleaned up which is just a matter of washing it down.

Ghost, thanks for the comments. I really have no idea how many man-hours it has taken or will take in the end...I typically intersperse tasks in amongst everything else and rarely am able to dedicate blocks of time, but it does take time. :) Plus, this is a project in phases. This is the first phase which is the cleaning and repair. Next phase is recapping the transport and replacing bearings, and the last phase is deep cleaning and recapping the electronics. Its gonna be awhile for all that, but it shouldn't be too long before I'm putting the transport through its paces. ;)
 
That brings back memories

Much of my misspent youth was misspent punching buttons on a couple of these beasts. In the early '70's I was working in one of CBS Records' studios, equipped with several of these.

Just one correction: With the servo motor system, these machines ARE capable of running servo locked with SMPTE time code. I know this because that's what we were doing. CBS Records was sticking with 16 track, not sure whether 24 track was going to become a standard--and not sure whether the quality loss of 24 track was worth it. However, there was pressure for more tracks. Our studio's head engineer, Roy Halee, needed more tracks for the records he was doing with artists like Paul Simon and Art Garfunkel (separately, they had broken up) and others. SMPTE time code had recently been introduced, and a company called EECO was making a synchronizer that used it. So the tech staff put two MM-1000 16 tracks together with one of these EECO synchronizers and we ran it as a thirty-track, since you gave up one track per machine for the time code. Did a boatload of records with this rig until they finally decided to go 24 track.
 
Hey welcome and thanks so much for the input!!

I've seen reference to and a picture of the EECO box...I wish there was a way to find out if the MM-1000 would work with my Timeline Micro Lynx synchronizer. Very interesting to know that it can be and was done...MAN what a sight that must have been to see multuples of these things sitting next to each other in chase-lock. :eek:

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Am I correct in my assumption that the EECO box didn't provide for one transport's controls to control the other? IOW if you needed to FFWD to a spot further along in the project you had to manually hit FFWD on both machines and use the footage counters to get both transports close to the pre-roll point, hit PLAY on both and then let the sync box do its thing and lock them up? It wasn't a sophisticated system as you would have on a set of full servo transports right (where the sync box can assume full control over all transport functions of the slave machine)?
 
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Well, it definitely doesn't look quite as "new" as some of my other refurb projects, but oh well. Here are some shots of the transport. The lifters have to go on yet as does the headblock, and I'm getting ready to remove a reel motor so I can form some new reel corks...I haven't touched the control panel yet...Look at post #3 for some before pictures.

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Yeah, me too! :o

The lifters are a bit involved because the nylon washers that bush between the lifter plates and the deck plate were totally shot, and inadequate IMO so I'm fashioning some bearing surfaces that have more surface area to prevent the lifters from kicking/tilting back when under pressure.

Plus I've cleaned up the safety guard for the tension resistors and remounted that...tracked down the proper hinges and hardware for the control box so that is all ready to remount...polished up the powersupply mounting plate, cleaned up the floor of the console under the power supplies and getting ready to mount a new cooling fan...cleaning up the breaker panel and repainting that 2U blank panel that i mentioned a few posts ago that was just trashed but is now straight and soon won't look like it got run over as far as all the scratches...working on repairing and cleaning the removable side panels...

so there is lots of activity, just not very exciting stuff but things I want to get taken care of before it gets wedged into the control booth.
 
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