Disassembling FATAR keyboard to clean - Help!

[dipole]

Hi.

Before I made the original post I tried with the top C and the tab broke. Luckily the spring and the front key stop hold the key firmly.

A few minutes ago (before I saw your post) I tried again and then managed to get one key out. The rest then had more space to wiggle and came out more easily (with no more broken tabs ).

The screwdriver just got in the shot I used a smaller/flater one.

Also some of the weights have micro cracks (a few white keys, black keys have a different design so they can't crack as easily).

Thanks for the reply, here are a few more pics.

[JaydeeMtl]

Hi.

Before I made the original post I tried with the top C and the tab broke. Luckily the spring and the front key stop hold the key firmly.

A few minutes ago (before I saw your post) I tried again and then managed to get one key out. The rest then had more space to wiggle and came out more easily (with no more broken tabs ).

The screwdriver just got in the shot I used a smaller/flater one.

Also some of the weights have micro cracks (a few white keys, black keys have a different design so they can't crack as easily).

Thanks for the reply, here are a few more pics.

Glad you were able to get the keys off. Those keys do look quite messy!!

Good polymer glue should fix the cracking weights


John

[marcianus]

Is possible to replace and old fatar tp10 (k2500X) with a new fatar tp40wood?

Are they compatible?

thanks in advance

[K2600User]

Is possible to replace and old fatar tp10 (k2500X) with a new fatar tp40wood?

Are they compatible?

thanks in advance

Hi! I'm sorry I'm late to this, but I'll reply anyway. To answer your question, the actions are compatible physically, but not electrically. Meaning - it will "mostly" work, but keyboards using the TP10 (like the K2500X and K2600X) have different velocity mapping than those using the TP40 (like the PC3X). The result will be mismatched velocity outputs between black and white keys. Now, maybe just MAYBE you can put the TP10 sensor PCB in the TP40 and have it work, but I literally have no idea. I know that the sensor PCB is pretty much the same throughout FATAR actions, but the TP40 is so new that I really don't know.

Now I have a question!!

I recently bought a later model K2500XS which uses the same "slightly improved" action that my K2600X uses. I have zero problems with my K2600X, and in fact, the K2500XS has no cracks on the weights as well. So mechanically, things look good. Unfortunately, the K2500XS has a very sluggish-feeling action. I applied Vaseline to the felt strips on the hammers, and vacuumed everything out. All the weights move freely, but I still have this sluggish feeling. Especially when the keys are hit at any kind of angle. It actually feels like there is excessive rubbing on the rubber keyguides under the front lip of the keys.

Does anyone have any advice on fixing this? It seems relatively minor, but I'm scratching my head trying to fix it. I'm going to disassemble the board again to see if the key frame is bent, but I didn't note any abnormalities last time I was in there.

Thanks!

Les

[Toddskins]

'Been a long time since I've logged in here, and want to say "Thanks and you're all welcome" for your comments. Hal (guy from Germany), I have not a clue on your issue. Sounds like it's not an easy maintenance issue. 'Dont' envy your dilemma.

A couple other posters in the last 9 months, too, seemed to have issues that defy normal logic. Sorry I cannot figure out a suggestion for a couple of you, either.

Great that all you guys keep this thead alive for the globe.

Especial thanks to JayDeeMtl (John).

[axisrecording]

photo.JPG


I learned the hard way which screws to take out - the small ones that are inset on the side will allow you to open up the case on it's hinges the proper way.

[Skittles]

Anyone needing to dampen vibrations might want to check out sorbothane. Also, I wanted to share that of all the lubricants I've tried on my fatar action, the one that clearly works best is SailKote dry PTFE lubricant. It's worth what they charge for it - amazing stuff.

I have a PC2x and am having problems with false triggers on the pads and when using the pedal. The diodes test ok and I have replacement pads in there. I have the kfp1 pedal and it was giving me problems even after cleaning it so I switched to a different pedal. Most of the pedal glitching went away but not all of it. It does seem to be related to the pads now though - that is, the pedal glitching is now isolated to a particular octave or so.

I'd like it if I could use this board for performance but right now it's too glitchy. Aside from replacing the sensor board...any ideas? Seems like it has to do with the carbon and the capacitive sensors but I'm not sure.

[cabinneighbor]

Hey everyone! so i have read threw this forum. so good, but i just wanted to make sure that this is what i need to do before i order them. So there are 18 notes in all that are not sending any midi signal It is strange to me that they are grouped in between perfect 5ths so i am thinking that what ever component groups them together is broken. the notes that aren't working are F3, F#3, G3, G#3, A4, A#4, B4, C4 and A7, A#7, B7, C7, C#7, D7, D#7, D#7, E7 i am thinking of getting some new contacts Fatar%20AMS-25640190s.jpeg
Is there any other reason that these groups of notes are not signaling?

[JaydeeMtl]

Hey everyone! so i have read threw this forum. so good, but i just wanted to make sure that this is what i need to do before i order them. So there are 18 notes in all that are not sending any midi signal It is strange to me that they are grouped in between perfect 5ths so i am thinking that what ever component groups them together is broken. the notes that aren't working are F3, F#3, G3, G#3, A4, A#4, B4, C4 and A7, A#7, B7, C7, C#7, D7, D#7, D#7, E7 i am thinking of getting some new contacts.
Is there any other reason that these groups of notes are not signaling?

Hi CabinNeighbor,

Sorry to answer so late, I hope I can still be of some help.

This sounds like a connection or component problem, unless someone spilled a drink near F3 to C4 then A7 to E7 You could try opening the board then re-seating all the connectors for the keybed. If that failed, carefully inspect the contact pc-boards - cold solder joints, cracks, etc.; re-test then if that fails, check out all the diodes with a multimeter.

Be aware that there are different length contact strips along the whole keybed, so you need to order the correct one. I would actually replace all of them, not just a strip or two.

While you have the board open, may as well vacuum out the bits and pieces.

John

[cabinneighbor]

Yeah i replaced the contacts on the notes that where not working... they still don't signal. Thanks, I am going to try all those things you mentioned. I still need to Learn how to use a multimeter more, I have an analog one, hope it works.