ensoniq sq-1 how do i change this battery

rokinrandy

rokinrandy

Banned Moderater
hey everyone..i'm really more of a guitarist but i have this synth that i bought a couple years ago and it farted out on me...it has been gathering dust for a year and i need to do something.
the battery died..it powers up but it gives me internall battery is dead..
i figured it would be a watch battery but has this clip attached to the circuit board????? there is a post here with a similar replacement battery but how to replace is my question????
it seems to be one peice..i tried to pry it out...no luck..is this a common battery in synths??? a watch battery that needs a soddering job????pure bullshit.... ..i can't find nothing online and the music store can't help either..
i have a pic at this link and i will try to attatch the pic as well,,thanks
http://groups.msn.com/randyraudenbushandfamily/keyboard.msnw?albumlist=2
 

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In the ensoniq sq-1 (and sq-1+) the original battery is soldered in. Unsolder it, and note where the + and - connect to the circuit board. (although it should be written on the circuit board itself)

I went to Radio Shack, bought a battery clip holder and soldered that to the circuit board with a couple of short jumper wires. The replacement battery is a Lithuim CR2032 (radio shack and panasonic numbering)

My SQ-1+ was made in 1991, and I'm on my 3rd battery right now (not too bad for 15 years). The only data you loose is the sequencer data and the INT sounds (ROM sounds remain).

It wasn't that big a job to do, in fact when I first had to replace the battery around 1996 or so, the music store instructed me how to do it, instead of sending it in for repair.
 
Rich at Route 66 will help you out with the battery ok, if you need to know any more and there may be a pictorial to take you through the battery replacement, click here http://www.buchty.net/ensoniq/
Rainer is an engineer that has a great site for Esq1 or SQ80 synthes.


Here is the battery change link, and the lithium battery and its location..I don't think the one in your picture is the one you are looking for~
http://www.pic101.com/ensoniq/battery.htm
Tony
 
DONT try to solder the battery to the clip yourself. You will only ruin your day.

I'm assuming you have the ability to desolder the entire clip (with battery) from the circuit board.

You can buy these things already made with the battery spot welded (it is not soldered) to the clip.

Let me go find the link, and I'll be right back......
 
Sorry, disregard my post..I thought you said it was an ESQ1, what you have is a much newer synthe that an ESQ1, but rhere still may be some usable info on the website link I posted. :confused:
 
I have an SD-1, also built in '91. The internal battery has never been changed (I bought it new), and the unit runs as good as ever...I did chat with one of the last of the great Ensoniq techs a few months ago about the eventual need to change that batt...He pretty much summed it up as "breaking the solder joint and installing jumpers..."

Eric
 
stetto said:
one of the last of the great Ensoniq techs a few months ago about the eventual need to change that batt...He pretty much summed it up as "breaking the solder joint and installing jumpers..."
Click to expand...

Which is fine if the power never goes off......or if you dont care about saving any settings when you turn it off...
 
Anfontan said:
Sorry, disregard my post..I thought you said it was an ESQ1, what you have is a much newer synthe that an ESQ1, but rhere still may be some usable info on the website link I posted. :confused:
Click to expand...

ha ha,,thats ok....i had an esq-1 back when the sq-1 was $1000,lol ...that was a cool synth it was stolen not even a year after buying it..i paid $100.00 for the esq-1,,...i thought the same thing when i bought the sq-1 for 250.00..oops this an sq-1 i wanted an esq-1,,yep a whole different deal...

i liked the esq-1 better because i could change the sounds and make it do the van halen 1984 type stuff,lol...on this thing the preset or voices stay the same...guess thats the pro and cons of digital vs. analog???? later :confused:
 
I would recommend replacing it with a battery clip if there's physical room for it. It will make things a lot easier long term, since you'll never have to unsolder the thing again.

For example:

http://froogle.google.com/froogle_u...wOJAxlxzcABdR1KMu7M0sjwAAAAAAAAAA&gl=us&hl=en

That holds a CR2032, which should be close enough for just about anything in that form factor.

It's safe to say that any lithium battery should work if it's the right voltage. Current capacity really isn't relevant because the circuits just pull a tiny trickle of current off of these batteries, and they all have darn near the exact same specs anyway. Voltage is also easy. The flat watch battery types are almost all about 3V unless they're the tiny hearing aid size batteries, in which case they're about 1.5V (but that looks like a 3V cell, e.g. a CR2025).

You can buy them online with solder tabs if there is no space for a holder:

http://gallery.bcentral.com/GID4864400P4589923-Lithium-Primary/CR2025-3-volt-Lithium-coin-cell.aspx

That's the 2025, but other places cell other models as well. Make sure the polarity is right, though I think they're probably all the same in that regard.

If you have to miss the exact voltage, it is better to be too low than too high. While the circuits should be able to handle a little overvoltage, I wouldn't count on it. The circuits will definitely handle a great deal of undervoltage because the voltage produced by most cheap lithium batteries falls off somewhat linearly as they run down (unlike some specialty Lithium cells and LiIon or LiPo batteries that have a significant voltage plateau).

Do note, however, that the (approximate) linearity of discharge means the time between replacements is proportional to the voltage, so don't go way under. A 3V instead of a 3.6V should be fine. A 1.5V instead of a 3V probably isn't a good idea. :D
 
this is just an update,,
yes i just installed the BATTERY HOLDER LITHIUM CR2032 by dgatwoods instructions...
i had to take the circuit board out and remove the old battery..and while sodering the new holder in i had to get my wife to push hard on the positive side as i heated it...then i got the other side alone...but these post are large compared to the neg and positive holes... thats why i had to put the pressure on the new clip while soldering...it works like new, and now changing the battery will be much easier for now on,,thanks again everyone
 
'
As I read your comments…

I'm really glad most of you realized the flexibility of placing a proper PCB holder. In fact, I consider it as a small crime when a big names even ponder whether to place it in the first place. There are so many FX boards with 3 or more layers (boards) when you have to remove all those connections, army of screws just to change a new battery… when with a decent holder - this action would take a few seconds and save great deal of time.

Most of the holders are generic PCB (mobo) holders. They fit in many cases, but some boards make terrible occupied economy of surrounding elements and you simply cant maneuver the holder with these. Raw penny holders, something I haven't seen in a decade. Not really a holder in standard way, but primitive looking metal holder (naked) that stand right inside the radius of the battery location. Simple but very effective where place is very limited. And, yes, there are such board.

Every time I look for these, no longer anyone seems to remember anything about them. (?)
 
Anfontan said:
Sorry, disregard my post..I thought you said it was an ESQ1, what you have is a much newer synthe that an ESQ1, but rhere still may be some usable info on the website link I posted. :confused:
Click to expand...

Man, you made the EXACT SAME mistake three years later on another thread- quit getting our (SQ-1 and SQ-R users) hopes up here! :D I really thought that, by 2015, there would be a youtube vid on it. But, no chance..
 
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