New amp for Greg - Bladow! (lots of pics)

Bubba po said:
Hiya Greg. :D I'll check out the serial no. of course. Thanks for that. Still waiting for the seller to get back to me. Marshall used values are a little cheaper in the UK; plus, gear's not shifting much at the moment on the usual gear trading sites. Nobody seems to have cash, all they wanna do is trade for pointy-assed crap :D. The lowest I saw before this was £600.
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That's amazing. Lowest I see them over here is around $1000....or 700 pounds for you. I don't know how to type the pound symbol.
 
Greg_L said:
That's amazing. Lowest I see them over here is around $1000....or 700 pounds for you. I don't know how to type the pound symbol.
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Yes, that seems to be about the average. Maybe £750. You see a few on ebay wanting £950, but they'll be waiting a long time, I think. Anyway, this guy's not checking his inbox. :mad:
 
Bubba po said:
Yes, that seems to be about the average. Maybe £750. You see a few on ebay wanting £950, but they'll be waiting a long time, I think. Anyway, this guy's not checking his inbox. :mad:
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I think in general us 'murricans value Marshalls more than yall do.
 
Bubba po said:
Yes. I expected to pay a bit more than that, I can tell you. If it's fully working I can afford a full re-valve and service and STILL be under budget. It's not that far away from me, either.
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Wow. That's a very good deal. I have been scanning the local classifieds here (Ontario) for a while and the 410 heads seem to hover around $2000 CAD (which is a little less than $1500 USD), give or take a couple hundred.

@Gerg, thanks for sharing the hint on the 2007 model with bubba.
 
kindafishy said:
@Gerg, thanks for sharing the hint on the 2007 model with bubba.
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The fuse thing is one problem with the 07s, but it's only the earliest 2007s. The later run of 2007 JVMs were fixed by then. Marshall got a bad batch of fuse holders and they failed on the first few runs of JVMs. The other problem with the 07s, and it's not really a problem but it's something to watch for, are the knobs. The pots are board mounted on 07s and the shaft passes through the front faceplate. This makes the knobs a little wobbly and flimsy feeling. And on a JVM with 28 knobs, that's a lot of flimsy. On later JVMs the pots and board are mounted more securely and there's no knob wiggle. Lol. Knob wiggle.

Mine's a 2010. No knob wiggle, no internal explosions, very sturdy build, and I've never had so much as a hiccup out of it. It's a great amp. They're just sooooo ugly. Too many knobs.
 
That is a good price for a 410 head, the lowest I could find one used here a couple years ago was $1200...I should've gotten it, because that's the amp I had my heart set on, but I fuckin' cheaped out & got my DSL100H...But, I did manage to get both my DSL100 & a 4x12 for about that, so it's all good, as I'm happy with the DSL....but, it ain't a JVM410 either though, so...


I've wondered about the pound sign too, I guess us 'murricans are just shit outta luck on that one....
 
At last! The bloody vendor finally turned Messenger on tonight and responded to my message! Going to go see it next Tuesday. :)
 
I haven't bought it yet, but I have a couple of pics. Does anything stand out, Greg? The push-button switch cover for setting the FX loop gain is missing, but the switch works.

jvm front.jpgjvm back.jpg
 
JDOD said:
That's really jealousy inducing, Bubba
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Isn't it just? :D

I don't find them ugly in the slightest! It has one or two zits and scars, but nothing that some Evo-stik and Back-to-Black won't smarten up. :)

Tell you what, though - I wish the direction of increasing gain was from left to right. It just makes more sense to me. It goes left to right on the combo, I guess they just fit the amp chassis in upside down.
 
Bubba po said:
Isn't it just? :D

I don't find them ugly in the slightest! It has one or two zits and scars, but nothing that some Evo-stik and Back-to-Black won't smarten up. :)

Tell you what, though - I wish the direction of increasing gain was from left to right. It just makes more sense to me. It goes left to right on the combo, I guess they just fit the amp chassis in upside down.
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Looks good. No knobs missing or anything. Just the effects loop range button, which you already know about. All that button does is go from +4/-10 db. It's setting depends on whether you wanna use stompboxes or rack shit in the effects loop. It's a set it and forget it kind of thing depending on what you use, so the button missing isn't that big of a deal if you can still stick something in there to switch it. In fact, the missing button might be a good thing. Mine always gets popped one way or the other in transport. I have to check it before I play.

https://marshallamps.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/JVM-hbk-Eng1.pdf

The "gain" structure does go left to right from the footswitch. In it's default setting, button 1 is the clean channel, button 2 is crunch, and so on. But you can configure it however you want.
 
Thanks, Greg. IYHO, if it turns out to be an '07 model, or one without the pots fixed to the faceplate, would you walk away from it? The guy looks to have been a serious gigging musician and if he's owned or used this amp for any length of time isn't it likely that the heater fuse issue may have been resolved at some point in its 9-year history, and that the pot mounting method isn't that much of a problem for people who aren't ham-fisted meatheads? :D

I presume the pots will feel a little wiggly if they aren't fixed to the faceplate as well as the PCB?
 
Bubba po said:
Thanks, Greg. IYHO, if it turns out to be an '07 model, or one without the pots fixed to the faceplate, would you walk away from it? The guy looks to have been a serious gigging musician and if he's owned or used this amp for any length of time isn't it likely that the heater fuse issue may have been resolved at some point in its 9-year history, and that the pot mounting method isn't that much of a problem for people who aren't ham-fisted meatheads? :D

I presume the pots will feel a little wiggly if they aren't fixed to the faceplate as well as the PCB?
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I personally would not walk away just because it's an 07, but I would pop the chassis out of the headbox and look at the heater fuse area. Look for shit like this...
738093_434129159974623_1011655460_o.jpg


740679_440803225973883_506595693_o.jpg


The first one is the burned fuse clips, the second is what a repair usually looks like.

It looks a lot worse than it really is, but still, I'd be wary of any amp that's been cooked anywhere. This thing aint some primitive single channel Marshall. These JVMs are like astrophysics compared to typical amps. The later 07s had already been fixed by Marshall. But if it's been used a lot since then, it's probably fine. The wiggly knobs aren't really a problem besides just being kind of cheap and flimsy feeling. My buddy has a later run 07 - wiggly knobs, but the factory corrected fuse issue - and his JVM is just fine.
 
COMPANY STATEMENT
(Reference JVM410 Heater fuse removal)
Units affected
Products produced before or during manufacturing week 24 of 2007 (serial number on product
states the week of manufacture number ex.: M-2007-24-1234-1).
Affected PCB ‘s will be marked as PCBP-00129-01 / 02 / 03 / 04
 
Greg_L said:
COMPANY STATEMENT
(Reference JVM410 Heater fuse removal)
Units affected
Products produced before or during manufacturing week 24 of 2007 (serial number on product
states the week of manufacture number ex.: M-2007-24-1234-1).
Affected PCB ‘s will be marked as PCBP-00129-01 / 02 / 03 / 04
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Awesome info. Thanks, bud. Is it possible to see the relevant bit of PCB by just taking the rear grille off?
 
Bubba po said:
Awesome info. Thanks, bud. Is it possible to see the relevant bit of PCB by just taking the rear grille off?
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No, you have to actually take the amp out of the head cab. It's only 4 bolts though. Well, 8 bolts. Take the rear grill off, then unbolt the chassis from the bottom. If that guy won't let you, then maybe consider walking from the deal.
 
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