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Thread: Guitar build #2

  1. #21
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    do you have to add more clearcoat over the decal too? what grit paper do you use....thats quite an art doing the finishing swag... damn nice customshop...i like that comment "no junk under the pickguard" ..true.

    hot rod that machine ..

    if it's not happening in the room, it ain't gonna happen on tape.-H.Gerst

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoolCat View Post
    do you have to add more clearcoat over the decal too? what grit paper do you use....thats quite an art doing the finishing swag... damn nice customshop...i like that comment "no junk under the pickguard" ..true.

    hot rod that machine ..
    it's really a matter of preference on whether to clear coat over the decal. Fender never did on the vintage stuff. Then, in around 1980, I think, they started embeding their decals under the clear coat.
    I know on their 60's strat and their 50's strat, the decal is embedded. On the actual re-issues the decal isn't embedded under the clear coat.
    In my opinion it looks nicer embedded. The decals I get from this vender have lightly been coated with lacquer while still on the transfer paper. So, it looks really nice without embedding it. (his gold color, in these decals, is amazing also)
    embedding it under the clear coat takes quite a few coats, in order to level the decal area flush with the surrounding area, without sanding into the decal.
    All that being said I will probably just put a light coat of lacquer over it. It won't be embedded like the modern ones but it won't be exposed to the elements that deteriorate it either.
    I was country before they took the O out.

  3. #23
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    Jimi, I've been thinking of building a guitar from parts for years, and recently got into changing out pickups and pots, so maybe I'll just go for it. I was wondering what my options are for finish. Can I just do a natural stain at home? If so, what do you recommend for a nice, dark stain?

    If I want paint I'd guess I have to ship it to a place that does that (sounds expensive). Is there any other option? I've heard of people using car places for paint jobs, but I'm not sure how that turns out or if the price is any good.

  4. #24
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    sure you can stain and clear coat yourself.
    As for which stain, it depends on exactly what color you want. As far as paint goes I use lacquer. It's readily available in rattle cans and easy to cut and buff to a brilliant finish.
    Go to AutoZone or orielys auto parts store and look at the dupli-color line of automotive touch up paint in spray cans. It is acrylic lacquer.. I would color with that and clear coat it with nitro lacquer (it's $5 A can at walmart)
    Last edited by jimistone; 1 Day Ago at 16:55.
    I was country before they took the O out.

  5. #25
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    The allparts neck for my strat project has a rosewood board with a GORGEOUS grain! It's a little on the light side for my taste, but man what a nice grain it has!

    time to darken it up with the Old English scratch cover for dark wood (aka Miracle Tonic!)
    The difference is unbelievable after only one treatment!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180812_161346-jpg   20180812_162835-jpg   20180812_161927-jpg   20180812_163207-jpg  
    I was country before they took the O out.

  6. #26
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    I drilled the holes in the heel of the neck after I treated it with the miracle tonic. ....
    bolted it on just to check it out!!
    That darkened rosewood board and tort pickguard go together like bread and butter!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20180812_163847-jpg   20180812_163927-jpg   20180812_164003-jpg  
    I was country before they took the O out.

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  8. #27
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    That's a beautiful gee-tar. Coming along real nice, man
    "No healthy person waits in line with a slew of geriatrics on a Sunday morning for pancakes" - RFR https://soundcloud.com/andrushkiwt

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