Fender Teles and swimming through the Fender sea

I bought a US Elite aged cherry burst about six months ago - my first Tele - and it completely changed my musical direction. Seriously... It's the guitar I should have bought 10 years ago.

Seriously. There is truth here. If you play any humbucker guitar and find yourself in a musical rut, get a Tele and play nothing else for a month. You'll find doors opening for you you didn't even know existed.
:D
 
2 weeks later...

still test driving Tele's....

1)$549 total(online) MIM brand new/sale is still here. 2yr warranty....# 1 owner. Ash body.

2)Used MIM pawnshop 1994 toploader with a gorgeous neck/setup now at $360+tax $385(the fire at Ensenada 94' era) poplar body..heavy used but nothing ugly.

3) a Fender Modern Player popped up on CL and seller offered $30 off if I drive for $170 in excellent condition. so this put this guy back in the test-drive. $170 makes it a contender due to pricing being so low. Will see if the neck is as great as the one I first tried (the others werent setup as good as that one) ...Pine body


weird deciding factors....
A) I like to tinker with the truss rod and setups and for that the MIM beats them all imo due to the black hard plastic plug and access to the nut...the US and China use the wood that chips so easily. I have the 3/16" Fender long wrench too I just bought for MIM. So with this the MIM kind of takes 1st place. # 1 or 2

B) I also wonder, is the setup and "feel" of a guitar due to the person in the factorys setup? Why would the same model guitar "feel" different ? string height, is one thing, fret sizes should be obvious....or is it something the end user/player should be doing them self? Its confusing I do all the setups to basic spec, and yet in the end the necks still feel different? maybe Im nuts? But some guitars like the pawnshop MIM neck just seems the way I like it best...:confused:

for $1000 I could have all three? :facepalm:


worth a mention: necks on the Modern PLayer Fender/China arent interchangable. several posts around about this....so not good if wanting to "mod"
Not 100% certain but I think you are correct about the manufacturer. CVs are made by Grand Reward who also use the Farida brand name and Farida was strongly suggested as the Modern Player manufacturer when they first appeared.
I don't know how well the Modern Players sell but the non standard neck heel is a drawback for some.


add: I think its safe to say, though not 100%, the Fender MP line is equal to Squier CV but with the Fender decals.
 
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I was reading the first Teles were pine wood then dropped quickly due to dings and people thinking it lesser wood.....

The pine Modern Players I saw dinged in the store had a pretty severe ding more like a chip of paint...of course some argue sealing the wood with thick plastic poly..... in my usage the pine getting ding doesnt matter but I dont want chips of laquer coming off.

for $170...dang? thats pretty good. Apparently not much for resale though. The neck size being different pocket means its a non-neck changing guitar, and probably the same quality as the Classic Vibe Squiers. I dont really know what Fender is thinking adding another China line with the MIJ, MIM, MIA?

really hard to make my mind up..lol not a bad problem. I guess I can sell it if I dont like it. $170 should be easy sell.
 

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2 weeks later...

still test driving Tele's....

1)$549 total(online) MIM brand new/sale is still here. 2yr warranty....# 1 owner. Ash body.

2)Used MIM pawnshop 1994 toploader with a gorgeous neck/setup now at $360+tax $385(the fire at Ensenada 94' era) poplar body..heavy used but nothing ugly.

3) a Fender Modern Player popped up on CL and seller offered $30 off if I drive for $170 in excellent condition. so this put this guy back in the test-drive. $170 makes it a contender due to pricing being so low. Will see if the neck is as great as the one I first tried (the others werent setup as good as that one) ...Pine body


weird deciding factors....
A) I like to tinker with the truss rod and setups and for that the MIM beats them all imo due to the black hard plastic plug and access to the nut...the US and China use the wood that chips so easily. I have the 3/16" Fender long wrench too I just bought for MIM. So with this the MIM kind of takes 1st place. # 1 or 2

B) I also wonder, is the setup and "feel" of a guitar due to the person in the factorys setup? Why would the same model guitar "feel" different ? string height, is one thing, fret sizes should be obvious....or is it something the end user/player should be doing them self? Its confusing I do all the setups to basic spec, and yet in the end the necks still feel different? maybe Im nuts? But some guitars like the pawnshop MIM neck just seems the way I like it best...:confused:

for $1000 I could have all three? :facepalm:


worth a mention: necks on the Modern PLayer Fender/China arent interchangable. several posts around about this....so not good if wanting to "mod"
Not 100% certain but I think you are correct about the manufacturer. CVs are made by Grand Reward who also use the Farida brand name and Farida was strongly suggested as the Modern Player manufacturer when they first appeared.
I don't know how well the Modern Players sell but the non standard neck heel is a drawback for some.


add: I think its safe to say, though not 100%, the Fender MP line is equal to Squier CV but with the Fender decals.
If I was buying...
I would want something used, so if I wanted to move it on down the line I could get my money out of it.
I would want something that could be modded with Mex. Or Am. Parts.
I would want either a alder or swamp ash body.
Lastly, I would want a lower than average price.

That's what I look for in a fender guitar.
Here is a thought.
There are squire affinity strats, basses, and teles out there that have alder bodies. Out of these, there are some that have the same pickguard screwhole pattern as their American counterparts. I used to be able to tell you which years that this was the case but it's been a while and it evades me right now. But, you can Google it....the guitar forums are loaded with threads on which years are the good ones.
Anyway, I wanted a p-bass and I wanted it with an alder body and I wanted a neck with a rosewood board and block inlays like a jazz bass. So, I found a jazz bass neck, already tinted amber, fits standard fender neck pocket, with block inlays, and a rosewood board on ebay. I did a "buy it now" for 80 bucks.
Then, I studied up on those squires with alder bodies and the correct pickguard screw pattern, and neck pocket. I knew what I was looking for. I found a body of one of the desirable ones on an ebay auction. It was fully loaded with an unblemished gloss black finish. I waited until the auction was almost over and set my top bid at $70 (the high bid was $51 with 5 minutes to go) and waited until 6 seconds to go and pressed "confirm bid". I won the body for $62. Then I bought the Geezer Butler signature p bass pickups for $120. These pickups are phenominal and come with the pots.
I also put a flat black pickguard on it because it looks so damn cool!
So, I have a absolute killer bass guitar with an alder body that any fender American or mim part with fit on for around $265.
Also, I could probably get $35 for the squire pickguard, pickups, and pots of I bothered to sell them.
So that word bring it down to $230.
You could do the same thing on a tele. If you want a genuine fender neck complete with a fender headstock logo you could probably add $100 to the price....but if you had the squire neck from the guitar you bought, to sell, you could get that $100 back.
Those alder body affinities always got great reviews and they are cheap....and they are definitely a great sleeper deal.
You can usually buy a whole guitar for what just the alder body itself goes for.
Sometimes for less
The key is to do your homework so you know what you're looking for.
You can score big time on ebay!
 
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i like where you went with that bass.

as Ive been going through the ocean of choices I was thinking of Eric Claptons tale of the parts strat too, taking what he liked from each one and making his own strat. seems every guitar I get has something I like and missing what the other one had that I liked...

after being burnt on two necks recently, lm standoffish. Luckily some dude bought both the necks this weekend...I told him truss is tripped, frets suck with flat spots etc...but he was cool with that. I recouped 50%...
 
i like where you went with that bass.

as Ive been going through the ocean of choices I was thinking of Eric Claptons tale of the parts strat too, taking what he liked from each one and making his own strat. seems every guitar I get has something I like and missing what the other one had that I liked...

after being burnt on two necks recently, lm standoffish. Luckily some dude bought both the necks this weekend...I told him truss is tripped, frets suck with flat spots etc...but he was cool with that. I recouped 50%...

I saw that affinity squire tele bodies...that are made of alder....are too leader tailpiece. You would have to drill the holes for a string through. I probably wouldn't go that route if I wanted a painted body ready to assemble. Those string through holes aren't that difficult, but it requires a drill press, and drilling the bigger holes for the string ferrals, to seat in, may chip some of the paint around them. That would kind of defeat the purpose of getting a great deal on a loaded and painted alder body.
Good luck on your search
 
I got reading a bit about Jimmy Page going with the top loader Tele's...not a bad reference!
Apparently Fender had the thru then went toploader then people complained and for a short time had the thru w/ top loader tray...either or...I liked that....why not offer both versions.
I doubt my ears could tell a difference. Just interesting Tele folklore... looked up some pics and his strings were ran toploader. Apparently he did the dragon paint job thing too...then the brown.
 
dang dude youve got some hours on the blonde neck.
notice the Modern Player in the pic too...

Ive got a Modern Player at home now, $170 on Sunday and its one year old, brandnew. Price! 5star...
Testdrive on this one showed fret buzz for my playing style. It was weird though because when I switched to a very thin pick .38mm the neck was perfect. I often pluck with my fingers and no pick, so fret buzz is 50% me I suppose...

I guess the Modern Players are the "step" from Squier Classic Vibe to a Fender entry? (at least in decal and factory)
My initial take is the coating and colors are just awesome. Its really better than most Ive looked at, very good. 5star
Not the best player for my neck preferences....but its test drive. Theres a MIM in a pawn shop that just has a neck setup I really like, but the rest of the MIM guitar is way below this ones visuals.

If I had money Id buy a few and piece part one together! or have a pro Luthier really custom shop it for my preferences would be the best I suppose. just cant justify a $5000 guitars right now.
Even a good fret job might be a few hundred.

Theres a video of a MP getting the frets "corrected".....but Im thinking? adding $300 for fret job pushes it to another level of just buying a American thats already got the frets right(assumed)?


anyway, did you have any issues with the Tele MP?
seems the majority are good reviews but theres the 10% about failing switches and jacks and fret issues, tuners etc...
 
I posted my Fender MP+ for sale and went with a Fender pawnshop 51 I grabbed it last night.
...a local store had a "never sold" 2010.

the Fender 51- discontinued PawnShop series...is it kind of a Tele cousin? lol

This neck is mint, brand new and vintage amber tint tele neck on the 9.5 type. No set up required and no buzz to chase..beautiful. My Squier 51 for the past decade made this a comfortable purchase for sure.

..this 51 is very high quality workmanship. Made in Japan 2010? T-10 serial number. So this would be the first release of these at April 2011. Discontinued 2013....mine is #498. :guitar:
 

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With all the Affinity Series talk, here's a 2005 I picked up for the heck of it brand new a while back for $150 because I liked how it played. Not sure if it's one of the alder body ones though? I've been tempted to get a Warmoth Bird's Eye Maple neck for it, but never got around to it. Hope one will fit. I did put a Seymour Duncan Little '59 in the bridge, and it does sound pretty damn good. Never recorded it though.

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With all the Affinity Series talk, here's a 2005 I picked up for the heck of it brand new a while back for $150 because I liked how it played. Not sure if it's one of the alder body ones though? I've been tempted to get a Warmoth Bird's Eye Maple neck for it, but never got around to it. Hope one will fit. I did put a Seymour Duncan Little '59 in the bridge, and it does sound pretty damn good. Never recorded it though.

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Nice guitar collection Johnny!

The affinity series, IMOH, is one of the best bangs for the buck out there.
They consistently get great reviews and usually have really, really good necks.
Plus the headstock isn't weirdly shaped.
 
MIM is stuff is good for the price, but the AVRI stuff is the best if you can find one used. Even new they are not bad value if budget allows. They just have little details that all add up. I also think Danocasters kill any and all fenders due to their perfect necks and fret combos, but they are tough to find used for a good price.
A friend of mine has a Korean Tele (didn't even know they made these) and it played pretty great. I'm not sure what they go for. I had a Japanese Fender in the 90s-2000s and didn't care for it. Really bad components and setup was finicky. If I were looking for a cheap, value guitar that plays pretty well I'd go MIM. Usually the biggest problem in these are the pickups so plan an upgrade maybe. I wasn't impressed with the American made stuff that wasn't AVRI (most tended to have jumbo frets etc which I just don't care for. I like vintage frets or 6105s or the Jescar 6125) or necks that didn't feel right. Just find a good shop and try out a ton of each.
 
im realizing i have preference for fret wires and the necks all saying they are 9,5 is bs...its like saying all car tires are the same.
sure its 9.5 but theres more to the picture...though thats me. Some I talk to say they dont even care about the neck and details.
i sold the Fender MP today for $250 used it flew out of here and had more than one wanting it. I cant say anything bad about it, never really played it. Theres an Ocean of the Teles geeez... I played a MIM 50th today and it was really nice, it drops to $280 soon. this place has some MIM STrats about to drop to $172. I dont know theres a lot of clunker MIM's imo.... something about some of them are not for me. These MIM strats dont come close to the Classic Vibes or that China Modern Player work... but then some of the Modern Players werent taking the dents and dings very well in the store.

thats the cost for American's they have the lower output and better have the quality to deserve the cost, its expected at that high of a price.
geezz I bet I played and plucked on about 60 guitars, it got kind of overwhelming all the different details and differences.
 
this is interesting, from Fender..

The main fret wire maker, California-based Dunlop Manufacturing Inc., produces five main fret sizes. Listed by part number, name (where applicable), crown width and crown height, they are, from smallest to largest:

6230: The smallest fret wire found on older Fender necks (.078″ x .043″).
6150: Vintage jumbo. Much wider but not as tall as 6230 (.102″ x .042″).
6105: Modern narrow and tall; currently very popular (.090″ x .055″).
6100: Jumbo. The largest fret wire available (.110″ x .055″).
6130: Medium jumbo (.106″ x .036″).

Which size you like is purely a matter of preference, although it can affect your playing style. If you like your fingers to actually touch the fingerboard when fretting the strings, frets that aren’t very tall like the 6130, 6150 or 6230 are for you. On the other hand, jumbo 6100 fret wire can provide easier playability with better sustain, tone and bending because you don’t have to press as hard to fret the strings, but your fingers probably won’t even touch the fingerboard, which could take some getting used to if you’re accustomed to smaller frets.


6230... 6130 is on my 51. which is the shortest wire at .036" which I really like. Its making more sense now, Im not crazy..ha these neck differences can be very minor. The shorter fret wire then allows the lower action... etc..
 

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im realizing i have preference for fret wires and the necks all saying they are 9,5 is bs...its like saying all car tires are the same.
sure its 9.5 but theres more to the picture...though thats me.

That's just the radius. The neck profile (C, U, V, and how thick or thin it is etc) makes more difference. Also important is the shoulder and how close the strings are to slipping off it. Like the '56 AVRIs have no shoulder so our Low E string literally falls off the neck with the slightest mishap in finger position. Then there's the finish...that gooey finish really irritates me. It wears off, but man it's annoying while on there.
 
I would have grabbed the top loader. I’m visiting a friend right now that has two, both mid 90s MIMs. To me they’re everything you need in a Tele.
 
That's just the radius. The neck profile (C, U, V, and how thick or thin it is etc) makes more difference. Also important is the shoulder and how close the strings are to slipping off it. Like the '56 AVRIs have no shoulder so our Low E string literally falls off the neck with the slightest mishap in finger position. Then there's the finish...that gooey finish really irritates me. It wears off, but man it's annoying while on there.

I agree....theres more going on. The finishing touches, the laquer preference is big too...dry, satin, gooey thick....sanded down...

Ive been playing a long time but in my early years I wasnt as picky, now I take my time and really dont have as much going on... so time to be picky and jam on 60 guitars before buying is easy (also being in a large city has a lot of guitars).

one mans high is another mans yuk!... lol
 
I would have grabbed the top loader. I’m visiting a friend right now that has two, both mid 90s MIMs. To me they’re everything you need in a Tele.

The top loader to me seems better for a live player. I dont play live anymore and never did much, but watching my sons band and the other acts as now a days its always 3-5 bands each show....

technical difficulties ruin the crowd buzz and broken strings and a top loader is fast and in front of the guitarist.
I always wanted string through, but functionally a top loader is fast, dont even take the guitar off...though these days having a spare ready is easy too.

I now have a 51 top loader and through body 51. I doubt the top loader is an sound issue. Seeing the Jimmy Page pictures and his top loader works fine, so does my Jazz bass top loader.

Through the body though seemed to be where Leo started with it? From what I read they tried going top loader and the customers complained and Fender went back....already end users didnt want change! lol
 
The top loader to me seems better for a live player. I dont play live anymore and never did much, but watching my sons band and the other acts as now a days its always 3-5 bands each show....

technical difficulties ruin the crowd buzz and broken strings and a top loader is fast and in front of the guitarist.
I always wanted string through, but functionally a top loader is fast, dont even take the guitar off...though these days having a spare ready is easy too.
...
Having restrung the 2nd of my friend's 2 just before leaving yesterday, I'd personally say that the string-through might have an edge on speed. I could probably do that with the guitar around my neck. Not as easy with the toploader, and you can't really get the angle on the string over the saddle when pushing the string straight in, so a bit more fiddly. On the positive side, you don't have to worry about a ferrule popping out and rolling away when you push the old string out.

But, I wouldn't have given any thought to that part of it, honestly. If it played and sounded right, I wouldn't care. For many years I used to borrow my friend's (if I hadn't taken one of mine when visiting) and never even realized it was different until I put strings the first time on a few years back. (Kind of my token rental fee, because he never changes the strings!)
 
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